60 inch RCA projection TV next steps after failure of EPROM being the fix

Jan 10, 2006 1 Replies

For all of you that provided me with feedback on my 60 inch TV. Thanks.



Today the technician came and changed the EPROM and as you-all pretty well told me, it was not the EPROM. After I mentioned the coolent problem, he homed in on that and found a couple of drops and after that pretty well gave up saying that the board was as good as gone. Since now the TV is so much garbage unless I find an answer to this, I tore into it tonight. Yes, there is a drop or two (and a drop or 2 is not an exaggeration). There is a drop or two on a wire and some evidence in of it (a slight film on the top surface of the components) in the vertical deflection section on the right rear side of the main board). There is NO evidence that any corrosion has started anywhere I can see on the main board. I took the main board out of the plastic tray and examined both sides with high power magnifiers and the circuitry looks clean and bright.



Very interesting finding, however. The large chip behind the tuner (UT16201) was soldered in by someone and there is a lot of solder flux around the chip. It appears that their was some circuit damage when it was replaced. Now, I have never had a repair person in to look at the TV, so this must have happened at the factory (TV bought in June of



1998).

Anyway, I am cleaning the underside of the board carefully with some circuit board cleaner in the area of the UT16201, the EPROM and the vertical deflection section as well as the Micro (U13101) in the rear of the main circuit board. I assume that the possibility of conductive glue mentioned around the clock and data lines described in the previous postings would be in this area (described as the service micro on the board).



I will now reassemble the TV and try it out. If what I have done does not demonstrate improvement, do you-all think it wise to remove the chassis and find a knowledgeable repair person to look at it? How do I find THAT person? This outfit I used was listed as a factory authorized repair service.



Again, for reference, the service # is P60812BLLG2. The number on the metal tag on the main board is CTC195A JR47344C9D. The # on the digital convergence board is PTK195AC 0 7355K2D A number below that (which looks like a serial number) is



59835735521092RWB-TCE.

Thanks again everyone for your comments and suggestions.



You need to fix the leak first, or this will be a never ending problem. Here is a segment of a post I made about how I handle these once the lead is gone:

While it's enormously time consuming, I remove any component that could trap liquid. I remove all transformers, chokes, tunable cans, etc. I then remove all connector sockets which trap liquid underneath. I soak the board in hot water, and clean with a solution of Parson's kitchen cleaner (uses ammonia) and water, and scrub the board clean. I then dry in a hot box (big cardboard box with a hole at one end to push a hair dryer in) and reassemble. Any component (like transformers) that has trapped the coolant needs to be replaced. While a pain in the ass, at least I know that any further problem isn't from coolant contamination. If it still doesn't work, I just repair as any other defect.

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required