OT Bookcase Repair problem

They'll deliver anywhere in North America at a reasonable price, money back guarantee. Nice and often unique stuff at very good prices, mostly for woodworkers (want to buy handles for making a pet casket or a lift for a sewing machine?).

Unfortunately, their website is one of the worst I've ever experienced. My printed hardware catalog wasn't at hand, so I used the "site search" option on Google to find those items. 8-(

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

--- If you're going to continue to allow her to stand on the shelves, you might want to consider getting rid of the pins altogether and substituting them with 1/2" -> 3/4" thick supports as wide as the shelves are deep and as tall as the separation between the shelves. Take out the pins for the bottom shelf, place a support for each end of the shelf at the bottom of the bookcase, against the risers, and rest the bottom shelf on the supports. If she's going to be standing on the next to the bottom shelf, then place a support at each end of the bottom shelf, against the risers, and rest the next to the bottom shelf on them. You could even secure them to the uprights of the bookshelf with flathead wood or sheetmetal screws to make them more secure and not depend on the weight of the books to keep them in place.

-- John Fields

if I wanted to make that a good solid repair I would drill the hole out oversize and then plug it and and redrill it to original size router could also work if you have the proper jig.

route out a proper sized piece and then route out the plug if you were replacing a knot in the wood it would be called a dutchman I think.

but just a spade bit for the oversizing works well and a hole saw to cut the plug.

Doug

my guess is that Constantines has it. They seem to be a US mirror image of Leonard's shop D

tegory=3%2C43648

Well, I'll chime in and third the insert idea here. I'd be surprised if you couldn't find something already made, at a well-stocked hardware store.

Or if you want to go "fixer-upper", just plastic wood the holes and drill new ones.

But heck, Jim! You're a republican! Just get a new bookcase, and donate the busted one to the poor people! ;-)

Good Luck! Rich

Hey! You ought to know me by now... I'm cheap ;-)

...Jim Thompson

Next time you're on a road trip, keep an eye out for used bricks.

;^j Rich

Or you could buy a step-stool. Or find a big box... ;-)

Cheers! Rich

Just use a spade (or better yet, a forstner bit) that matches the O.D. of some dowel stock*. Drill out the damaged holes and saw some plugs out of the dowel slightly longer than the hole depth. Glue in place and sand to match the existing surface. Redrill 1/4 inch holes.

Hire a taller cleaning lady.

One with nice long legs and a french maid's outfit with the little miniskirt.

if you use a dowel the grain runs the wrong way that is why I suggested a hole saw.

Doug

Use brass or Delrin rod and grain won't much matter. ;-)

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

Yabbut, you got more cash, so you're first beer!

%-} Rich

This could work, but Jim, apparently, is a self-avowed cheapskate.[0] Not that that's a _bad_ thing, of course. After all, accomplishing the same end with the least expenditure of resources could be called "efficiency." ;-)

Cheers! Rich [0] it's in another sub-tangent, never mind.

Why does this make me want to go search out "Rube Goldberg?"

;^j Rich

There's still a difference between plywood and multiplex. Multiplex, often called plywood in Europe, is the really good stuff, while plywood in the US refers to the stuff that they make houses from, which is really crappy.

--Daniel

I'd have figured a W. By God hillbilly would just fill it in with JB Weld and then use that high falutin' drill guide to restore the hole ;)

Liquid steel J-B Weld?

Easily, it is just an epoxy.

-Chuck Harris