is the production of electricity from a stepper motor just one of the methods ?

is the production of electricity from a stepper motor just one of the methods ?

I need to produce 12V~ 24V 50 W. can u recommend one?

I can't think the better English grammar for this question.

Reply to
Mylinux
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A mains operated power supply would be a good choice. If you definitely need to convert rotational motion into energy consider a car alternator/generator. A large permanent magne stepper motor would be an expensive alternative. Note that there are stepper motors that are not permanent magnet types (e.g. variable reluctance stepper motors), much less suitable to power generation.

Alf Katz snipped-for-privacy@remove.the.obvious.ieee.org

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Reply to
Unbeliever

I think the best method would be an exercise bike with a small = alternator attached. You could use an alternator from a car. What you attach the leads to is up to you but I'm sure the newsgroup could provide some suggestions.

Just have to make sure you pedal at a steady rate.

Alex

Reply to
Alex Gibson

attached.

I'm drawing a blank right now on the brand name, but maybe 25 years ago I worked on the design of an exercise bicycle that used an alternator both as a variable work load and also provided the power for the bicycle electronics... pulse, breathing rate, miles traveled, work performed, etc.

I do remember it used a Delco alternator since they utilize a slightly magnetized rotor, allowing self-starting without a battery source.

...Jim Thompson

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|  James E.Thompson, P.E.                           |    mens     |
|  Analog Innovations, Inc.                         |     et      |
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Reply to
Jim Thompson

You are looking at only 4 to 5 amps. An alternator would be a slight over kill. I've used in the past the automotive electric fan motor, which is a PM motor that can act as a generator also and can easily produce 12 volt to 24 volt at 5 to 10 amps. Simpler, smaller, cheaper and easliy mounts to most applications.

Good Luck, Mike M

I think the best method would be an exercise bike with a small alternator attached. You could use an alternator from a car. What you attach the leads to is up to you but I'm sure the newsgroup could provide some suggestions.

Just have to make sure you pedal at a steady rate.

Alex

Reply to
Michael Morrow

That GM magnatized rotor actually is enough to get a car running with out a battery - I found that out when driving down a road, and my car suddenly started bogging out severly and had almost no power. The engine stalled (or I shut it down to do a quick restart to reset the computer) while shifting gears and I was left with no lights, heat, radio, etc. I popped the clutch - nothing. I dropped it down to first gear around 50 km/h and popped the clutch - everthing started to work again. Upon pulling off on a side street, looking at the main power feeds on the starter to see if any were corroded, along with the ground straps, I discovered that the battery cable lug was broken underneath the plastic from moving around (let's just say I put a larger battery in and I never got around to modifying the hold down until after this problem).

Reply to
Jeff

On the open-battery condition, yep.

The magnetized rotor has a draw-back, but GM calls it a "feature"... daytime headlamps to absorb the unregulated output that results from the magnetized rotor ;-)

...Jim Thompson

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|  James E.Thompson, P.E.                           |    mens     |
|  Analog Innovations, Inc.                         |     et      |
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Reply to
Jim Thompson

"Jim Thompson" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

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The excess current produced by this magnetized rotor is small, unless the engine is up in the 5000 - 7000 rpm range (most older GM engines are not revved beyond 3000 rpm under normal conditions), even then it's not much. The ign system, Computer, 6 injectors and especially the MAF sensor is more then enough to drain this current in my car without daytime running lights. In a old car without a computer system (including a computerized feedback carb), this bit of magnetism might put a little excess strain on the battery (breaking down the water - commonly called boiling the battery due to the hissing sound), especially back then a typical lifetime for a battery was about 4 years. My father has a old work van that is only the basics (carb and ign, no DRLs) from 1984 and surprisingly enough, the voltage is well regulated to a stable 13.8 V under only ign system load to full lights and front and rear heater blower motors going full blast. The last battery lasted about 7 years. These days the engine management systems, climate control systems, DRL's etc keep more then enough load on the alternator. One not so interesting part about GM is that their vehicles are increasingly getting crappier as they try to cheapen designs as much as possible and switch to imported sources for their parts. My old 1985 MPFI Chev (GM division) Camaro is very reliable, required very little maintenance, even with the extreme abuse I put on it at times (I did manage to blow a synchronizer in the transmission on 2nd gear which took about 4 hours total to fix, and I did rip a bracket off the rear end due to extreme abuse and rust). It's age is really starting to show (very hash winters here that love to eat metal - refinishing a car every so often takes its toll, and a lot of little things are starting to need replacement) so I will be replacing it likely next spring/summer. It's replacement won't be a newer GM.

Jeff (former nic "Da Man")

Reply to
Jeff

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