Any not-very-expensive SOIC to DIP adapters

Tack 16 wires on the SOIC and mount it in a 16 pin DIL header. Pot it or cover it with hot melt glue to make it more robust.

Or do it "dead bug" by gluing the SOIC to the board upside-down and soldering, say, AWG 30 the legs to the pads.

If you want cheap, you'll need to pass on the socket part. Sockets for surface-mount parts simply aren't cheap. For one thing, unlike DIP sockets, they're used only for prototyping and not for production, so the volumes aren't there; for another, they're more complex to make because the shape of the leads is not obliging.

Accept that you're going to have to solder to fit within the budget and have a look at things like these:

SOIC sockets are for programming parts and then soldering them, not for socketing them on the board because you're afraid of soldering them. This explains their high prices.

Dead-bug style construction with SOIC's is perfectly feasible. After all the lead spacing is only 0.050 inches, which is just the same as a TO-92, and you do those all the time, right?

Tim.

"Tim Shoppa" wrote

If you are terminally myopic and have not a caffeinated neuron in your body:

If you are of the Tri-Focal generation a trick is to bend the leads alternately up and down. Glue the dead-bug to a berg jumper (one of those rectangular things for fitting on pins "1-2 for master drive, 3-4 for ...") and glue the berg jumper to the board: this gives you extra working room when attaching the wires, reducing solder bridges.

Use epoxy for gluing, some cyanoacrylates (like the ones in my tool box) will put a hazy coating all over everything and making for hard soldering.

Me:

o I use stripped 30Ga ww wire. o Wire to the board first, then to the IC pin - works as a 3rd hand for the wire o A #1 watchmaker's tweezer is a great help o I mount the wee beasty on a dip header, making it easy for re-use. Mark the IC's p/n on the bottom of the header.

-- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/

Wow... those are lovely.

Vero Corp used to sell wiring pens. I got two I use for different size wire. The tip is a problem though, and I like the idea of putting a drafting pen tip on the barrel. You can't get the little wire combs anymore, so I use 4lb. Monofilament fishing line to "stitch" the wires on the board when I am done wiring and testing.

Had to get used to using a magnifying lamp a lot. Easier than the microscope I use for SMT components on a PCB.

I used to sew with that wire, you can get 500g rolls cheap, slightly heavier gauge is better for sewing.

On vero board leave two holes for each pin, all wiring is on the component side. Thread a couple of feet on a needle, go down one hole and up the other for each node in a net. At the end of a net leave a loop on the component side and start the next net. When you run out of wire solder all the nodes then break off the between net loops with tweezers.

Very fast.

Very impressive. Looks a lot like professional (machine-done) "Multi-Wire" before being conformal-coated. Actually it looks better than the Multi-Wire boards I've seen because you're working at like one-fourth the pitch.

Tim.

It looks absolutely insane to me. Especially the TSSOP and the fine-pitch connector. But thanks for sharing your methods.

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

Excellent work. Did you have any problems with crosstalk since you bundled the wires so closely?

"James T. White" wrote

the

Not my work. It's the work of Mr. Chan (?):

-- Nicholas O. Lindan, Cleveland, Ohio Consulting Engineer: Electronics; Informatics; Photonics. Remove spaces etc. to reply: n o lindan at net com dot com psst.. want to buy an f-stop timer? nolindan.com/da/fstop/

"Norm Dresner" wrote in news:JmC8d.492391$ snipped-for-privacy@bgtnsc05-news.ops.worldnet.att.net:

Aries has a line that go for $6 or $7 each. Digikey is one distributor that has them.