exists an etch resistant pen from corner drugstore/office supply ?

Staedtler Lumocolor 318-9 Fine.

Leon

Nothing is better than just doing the iron-on over and learn from the previous attempt. Clean your copper with a scrub pad thoroughly and iron with more heat and pressure, use the top edge of the iron. The paper your using may not have the right finish.

More info on my webpage

For a little touch up, I have had the best luck with Bic Wite Out pens.

Black markers can work but the results are nothing to write home about.

• * * Christopher

Temecula CA.USA

Thanks Leon, i read about staedler pens used in plotters but... does that ink need to heat treated to work ? thanks again, rob

Try a regular Sharpie. It resists feric chloride and ammonium persulfate.

Tom

from the

and

The

yea, i tried three times and the first was the best go ???

i am trying a double sided board which is the real trouble as the

thanks for info and ideas, robb

christ>Nothing is better than just doing the iron-on over

Agree. Don't get in a hurry. Prep is critical. Use a Green Meanie and detergent. Rinse and dry thoroughly.

He may may not have the iron quite hot enough but otherwise either of those may tend to just spread out the toner. Again, I would say "Don't get in a hurry". Too short a dwell time with the iron is what I found to be my initial problem. LIFT the iron to move it.

Don't get impatient taking off the paper/plastic either. Let it cool completely first and be gentle peeling/removing.

The stuff for Xerox copies seems like a natural match. I used nail polish I got at the 99c store and cut the brush bristles at a steep angle to get a point.

I found them completely unsuitable. The ink was just too thin.

persulfate.

Thanks for idea Tom, I planned to use a muriatic , peroxide , water etchant but i will try it out just to see rob

I once bought a special "resist pen", and except for the name stamped into the side, it was indistinguishable from an ordinary Sharpie.

Cheers! Rich

In message , robb writes

I've used Staedtler permanent OHP pens successfully for many years for 'simple' hand drawn PCBs and touching in blemishes in photoresist after developing. Also used them with PCB transfers (anyone remember them!)

Sharpie. It resists ferric, ammonium, and hydrochloric.

Jim

-- "If you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." --Henry Ford

Use the permanent Sharpies. sold every where. in fine and large tip.

One time I did consider searching for and trying out pens but decided not to. I didn't feel like making a special trip just for a pen.

Instead I've tried the following alternatives:

• Nail polish + brush
• Small brush and spray paint.. (1st make spray blob on card board.)
• Lacquer in medical needle.
• Stencil and spray paint
• Scotch clear tape
• Over clear tape + rework with dremel tool
• Silicone in medical needle.
• Glue gun glue

D from BC

So your boards match your nails? ;-)

great, sharpie and hcl something i already have.... thanks for reply, robb

Thanks jamie,

and i learned there is an ultra-fine also , it makes a pleasant

robb

Works for me. So far I've done four or five PCBs with a Sharpie. Helps to go over and re-ink the pattern, I've had one with somewhat spotty tracks- looked like wood grain.

Tim

-- Deep Fryer: A very philosophical monk. Website @

Don't use blue or green Sharpies. The acid eats right through them.

Jim

-- "If you think you can, or think you can't, you're right." --Henry Ford

A Sharpie or fingernail polish. The fingernail polish is easier to use if thinned about 50% with acetone. Apply with a pointed brush.

Is this before or after you do your own nails?