I'd settle for a good LED "flood". ...Jim Thompson
I'd settle for a good LED "flood". ...Jim Thompson
My experience is that Philips "outdoor" CFLs in enclosed fixtures achieve most of their full brightness down to single digits degrees F.
The 2700K version is the more common one. Last time I checked (it was a few years), they were equal in cost at Home Depot.
- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
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The above explanation of Sodium vapor lamps left out the role of the Sodium. Wikipedia get Sodium's function right.
I was not discussing the role and effects of sodium, but the roles and effects of ingredients in neon lamps.
Some sodium vapor lamps, when cold, shows how one mixture used in neon glow lamps glows with a color easy to expect of that mixture, while neon glow lamps with that same mixture glow with a different color not as easy to expect of that mixture. This is why I mentioned these sodium vapor lamps.
- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
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I do believe you are correct here, and i propose that the failure was in the drive electronics instead. I wonder if the unit is still available for destructive physical analysis?
--=20 Transmitted with recycled bits. Damnly my frank, I don't give a dear
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How are you calculating this so-called efficiency?
??? See above.
Equivalent to the "forward cone" of which 60-watt lamp? A bare 60-watt A-line, a 60-watt A-line in a reflector, or a
60-watt incandescent reflector lamp? And, what is the rated life of your "equivalent" 60-watt lamp? These variables have been used by LED-based lamp manufacturers to incorrectly bias the comparison in favor of their product.Do you sell a product to "real customers"? Do you have a spec sheet for this product?
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I don't have the one for 7W, but for 5W:
LED: 5x 1watt LED View Angle: 40=B0 Lumen: 300-350 lumens Energy Consumption: 5 Watts Color Temp: 3000k Lens: Crystal Glass Power: 80V to 250V AC Warranty: 3 years
My experience with the maybe-separate unit that faded to about half its original brightness in 5-6 months operating continuously had no electronics failures or degradations other than degradation of the LEDs.
The LEDs changed color towards more-blue as well as losing about half their luminous output. The electronics appeared to me to have not degraded. I even unsoldered the LEDs and ones from un-aged units of same model purchased at same time and found that the LEDs degraded.
My claim here is white LEDs of unknown brand/model mfr/part-# at close to 30 mA had phosphor degradation causing their luminous output to be roughly halved in close to 4,000 operating hours, as well as for their color to become more-blue.
- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
I hope this is verified by usage of an "integrating sphere" or at least a "goniometer", or "related tactics" with a large number of readings with a good well-calibrated light meter and a similarly good protractor-type device in a laboratory where it is notably-goodly-known via lab notes on testing for such that wall/floor/ceiling/table reflections are tested to be insignificant, with "such good" light meter readings being taken at every angle from on-axis to where output withstands debate as being insignificant in increments of at most 10 degrees, preferably 5 degrees, and show your mathematical work to extent of knowing what you are doing.
You state a warranty - is this a product on the market? If so, please tell us where I can purchase one!
Do I get a refund of everything I pay to get one of these if I can get a citable major independent testing lab to report that this product delivers less than 300 lumens from 5 watts or less than 60 lumens per watt?
How about if I get one of these and test it at 82 volts AC or 245 volts AC, 60 Hz sinewave (easily available to me), and I find power consumption to fall outside the range of 4.00 to 6.00 watts, and/or I find lumens out per watt in to fall below 60 or even 50?
Is your warranty good against luminous output falling below what you claim if I run this lamp 24/7/365?
Do you state a temperature restriction or application restriction? How about if I screw one of these into a "heat hellhole" recessed ceiling fixture? Suppose I run one of your lamps in such a "heat hellhole"
24/7/365? If within 3 years I get one to fade to less than 60 lumens/watt luminous efficacy or to even completely "kick the bucket", what do I get from you and what do I have to do to get this from you?And, what are your color specifications, other than nominally 3000 K? How far high/low allows one to make good on your waranty? How much greenishness/purplishness by what measure allows one to make good on your warranty? What do you claim for color rendering index, and by what measure such as Ra8? Does your warranty guarantee such color rendering index?
Please keep in mind that CFLs have light output reasonably stable over intended life expectency to extent mentioned in "Big 3" manufacturer lamp catalogs, and I find initial color and color rendering properties, and color-change-with-aging and color rendering properties of CFLs "that good" to be nothing to complain about even though "Energy-Star-Logo" CFLs of "Big-3" brands have their warranties only against "outright failure" and of "limited warranty type" ("my words and not theirs").
Given claims that I have had a lot of experience with for CFLs and LED "lamps/"lightbulbs", my experience suggests that LED ones have greater need to "have their feet held to a fire", and to have greater burden of proving themselves in whatever/all areas than even CFLs have/had, due to even "greater hype" that LED "lamps"/"lightbulbs" have/had than CFL ones have/had.
- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
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So be it. I will no longer discuss your exceptional direct experience. I have heard of poor life phosphors (organic) elsewhere though, i had thought them to be too rare to find in commercial LED products.
60 W and 100 W equivalent LED lamps have been available for some time, just not at a reasonable price. (early ones were something like us$45 each.)
That is a tradeoff. I would use LEDs over a lot of varied wavelengths in addition to phosphor white LEDs.
Perfectly reasonable, though unfortunate, performance from an LED with low quality phosphor. In the quest to cut costs to the bone, this particular manufacturer could have used a phosphor that was inappropriate for open air operation.
[big snip]
OK. I want one. Please post the ordering information, or send by e-mail to the address in the signature line, after proper correction, or the e-mail address at my web site.
I will post my test results using my new integrating sphere.
The DOE conducts a testing program for solid state luminaires and replacement lamps under their CALiPER program. The results of these tests are posted on the DOE Solid State Lighting web site and available to all interested parties.
To the best of my knowledge, as of this date and after seven rounds of product testing, CALiPER has not yet found any LED-based A-Line incandescent lamp replacement products that actually generate the same amount of light as the incandescent lamp they are designed to replace.
The very existence of the $10 Million L-Prize is a strong indication that LED-based incandescent lamp replacement products that generate the about the same light output as the 60-watt incandescent lamp, are no larger than that lamp, have good color quality, reasonable CCT, and wall-plug efficacy of 90 lm/W have not yet been produced. As noted in this newsgroup, the L-Prize competition recently had its very first entry - from Philips.
What's in a modern car's headlights? ...Jim Thompson
I have been using many high power LED's. Nost have plastic lens. I notice on some small low power spots, that they seem to be emiting enough ultraviolet to fog the front plastic piece. I don't know what the long term effects this might have on other LED's. I notice on the high power CREE the phosphor coating completely covers the light source. I have not examined the little ones.
greg
The most common automotive headlamp light source is still halogen incandescent typically with ~1000 Lumen/55W filaments for the lower beam and ~1500 Lumen/65W filaments for the upper beam. High intensity discharge (HID) sources are becoming more prevalent due to their efficacy of ~3000 Lumen/35W but they're still pretty expensive so you usually only see them on high-end vehicles or as expensive options. There are a few new cars out there that have LED headlamps, but their efficacy is still only on par with halogen, although the beam pattern can be more readily controlled due to having multiple light sources.
So far, I have only seen these headlamps with white LEDs created by a blue base and phosphors. A color LED array would be pretty difficult to adjust exactly right for each headlamp over time to ensure the resulting beam pattern would continuously meet minimum safety requirements.
Dang, I was there yesterday. But thanks, I'll check next time.
What are these small low power spots? This has to be some pretty cheap plastic! The usual white LEDs emit pretty close to no ultraviolet at all, not even a lot of visible violet. They do produce a fair amount of blue.
Are you sure this plastic is not being fogged by UV from outside it, from chemical means or from being cheap plastic that ages in a bad way?
- Don Klipstein ( snipped-for-privacy@misty.com)
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