Trailer and Power Generator

Yes, but they also dry out the food quicker. Then fan blows cold dry air over the food whenever it runs. Maintenance on a chest freezer? About the time it goes bad it's time to get a new one. Also if the walkin goes bad, where do I put $20,000 worth of seafood, NOW! Plus it is over three tons, 65 lbs at a time. If one freezer goes bad, we always have one empty one to move product into. I have a 1 wire system that runs to my computer. Several time a day when I'm on the computer. I monitor the temperature of each freezer. Here's a screen shot;

I have 13 sensors, Three are in the empty freezer group. note they are red, meaning they are over temperature (-5F). In that EMPTY group I have one that senses outside air temperature (#10). The other group of freezers that has seafood in them, I call the FULL freezer group. If anything in the full freezer group turns red, I need to look at it. Mike PS. been at this 11 years, got it pretty well figured out, now the oil may put us out of business.

"amdx" (clip) there is some thought about

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Before I installed a proper transfer switch, I used a kludge that worked well, and didn't cost much. I inserted a 4 connector twistlock connector pair into the line from my meter to the house. I then ran a line from my generator to the spot where this twistlock pair is located. The line from the generator was wired with a female connector that matches the male connector running to my house. In a power outage, I go out into the garage and unplug from the utility, and plug into my generator. This is simple, completely eliminates any possibility of hooking the generator to the incoming power line, and costs a lot less that a heavy double-throw switch.

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I asked the electrical inspector about that, but with an RV type plug wired to only a single receptacle inside and no connection to the house wiring, and he threw a snit fit. Is that legal and if so how can I prove it?

jsw

"Jim Wilkins" wrote: I asked the electrical inspector about that, but with an RV type plug wired to only a single receptacle inside and no connection to the house wiring, and he threw a snit fit. Is that legal and if so how can I prove it? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I don't know what the code says, but he may be a knee-jerk inspector who automatically condemns anything that "isn't the way it's done."

If you plug one of your freezers into your generator, that's certainly legal. If you transfer them one at a time to the generator, that would still have to be legal. Now unplug one of your floor lamps and transfer it to the generator. Then, a piece at a time, put the rest of your household to the generator. At what point would he start objecting? If you are legal so far, then the only remaining step is unplugging from the utility. Could that put you in violation? Trouble is, the inspector may not be smart enough to follow simple logic.

As long as you don't have a fire, it's legal.

If you have a fire, after a power outage, then it's over.

good luck

hamilton

I would want to insert something after a main breaker, not before it. Something about plasma.

greg

The power grid isn't involved. I want to temporarily run a washing machine or air conditioner from a generator when we lose power after a storm. This is one step above passing a cord through an opened window, without its heat loss and carbon monoxide risk.

jsw

Put a nice well made minimum 3/8" chain though the top lifting loop and secure it with an Abus lock, around something very hard to cut.

Nice rigs like this..tend to disappear to Mexico/etc etc

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that, in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid. Gunner Asch

Yes Gunner, My thought is, once I park it, I'll put it up on blocks and take the wheel/tires off and store those elsewhere. Mike

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Check the _actual_ draw on the heater assembly at 120 V (with proper air or water running through it). It may turn out to be anywhere from 2 kW to 10 kW.

24/7/365.

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Oohhh. Good point, if this is going to be used for backup power for an all metal boat there are special requirements that need to be met.

I did a quick check when I got the unit: Each element is rated 2500 watts at 240v. That would be 625 watts at 120. I measured the cold resistance on a couple of them at 23.1 ohms and 23.8 ohms, ran one of them on 120 line voltage, measured 122 volts, 5 amps, 612 watts on a real wattmeter. I was surprised it was that close to the rated specs. The good part was that it runs cool enough that a fan is not mandatory.

Then you wont have a portable generator. Just one on a simple slab.

I think you will find uses for the welding application this Very nice machine will provide for you. It is also capable of running a MIG gun as well as stick and TIG

Shrug...I have always had a very strong "what if" world view, and try to set up things to reflect the changing world.

Shrug...each to their own.

Nice machine.

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that, in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid. Gunner Asch

When a hurricane comes I'll put the wheels back on, then I can push it closer to the house for use.

Me too, that's why I bought a welder instead of a generator. I figured a low hrs welder would be worth more than a low hrs generator.

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I got one of those trailers recently. Just for curiosity, did you have to do some filing to make one of the bolt holes match up?

Not an answer your question, but it brings to mind a little story: I bought mine at K-mart on sale for $99.00. It came with a welded frame so came in a pretty big box. I had no other way to get the trailer home, so I just assembled it in the K-mart parking lot and pulled it home! I don't remember having any particular problems. The process took less than an hour.

I did get lot's of strange looks though...

Vaughn

I got one of those trailers recently. Just for curiosity, did you have to do some filing to make one of the bolt holes match up?

------------------------------ I had one that was very tight, had to force the holes into alignment. So no, I didn't have to file it, but I had to force alignment. My package was in bad shape, (it comes in two packages) It was missing a spring slide plate. Harbor freight shipped me two right out. The cardboard box had the wheels/tires, the fenders (they're heavy) and a bag of hardware. It had straping, but the tape holding the flaps was torn open and somehow the bag of hardware was ripped and it lost the slide plate. I did have a lot of extra nuts and bolts. I offered pictures of the package to HF in case they wanted to tell China the problem with the packing. They declined. Over all, I think it was a real deal, I see the price is up to $239 today.

Mike

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The price was showing at that, but when I asked them about the unit, they told me the price was $199. So I was able to get the spare tire for about what I had figured on paying without it. Of course, you're not gonna be needing a spare with what you're doing.

But I suggest that you not break the Eleventh Commandment. THOU SHALT NOT TEMPT. You've installed a very marketable item onto a trailer.

If you will be pulling one of these cheap trailers any significant distance, you not only want a spare tire, you want spare bearings. Ideally, keep an entire hub already packed with grease. I can change a hub in about 5 minutes with only a hammer and screwdriver for tools. The parts are pretty common. This is the best source I have found so far:

Vaughn