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Re: OT: 3D printer, fun if you make things

It is a simple part, like a socket with a short shank on one end.

You should be able to do bridging and not need support. It doesn't matter how messy the inside end face of the socket is. If it were me, I'd print it as a plain round "socket" with two slots up the side, so you can use a hose clamp or something to squeeze it onto the 15mm rod. If you're good with cad, print it with bolt holes so you can use bolts to clamp it :-)

Above that (relative to the print bed) I'd print a hex shape like a bolt head, that fits some socket you've got for your drill. You could print a small hex "shank" as long as the torque is low; printed plastic is not strong in that direction. If you do, definitely fillet the joint.

And if it breaks, you can always print another one :-)

Reply to
DJ Delorie
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It can print *HOLES* though. Use nuts on those bolts of course. Like this:

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Also:

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(standard 0.4mm nozzle on an ancient Rostock Max delta)

------ sed-dowel-thing.scad ------ $fn = 24;

difference() { union() { cylinder (d=17, h=20); translate([-3, -15, 0]) cube([6, 30, 10]); } translate([0, 0, -0.01]) cylinder (d=15, h=18); translate([-1, -16, -0.01]) cube([2, 32, 16]); for (a=[-1,1]) { scale([1, a, 1]) { translate([0, 11, 5]) rotate([0, 90, 0]) cylinder (d=4, h=10, center=true); } } }

translate([0, 0, 20]) cylinder (d=12/cos(30), h=14, $fn=6);

Reply to
DJ Delorie

Heh. Try it without and see :-)

Reply to
DJ Delorie

In some industrial areas, metal parts are being made that are stronger, and more reliable than the original parts. Do not whine about plastic..

Reply to
Robert Baer

Sometimes yes, sometimes no. For screw/bolt holes, I either let it droop the fraction of a mm it will (and drill it out) or print a notch in the top to compensate. For larger flat spans, if you're seeing droop, tune your bridging settings. I can span many inches without support. Non-flat spans (like 5-30 degrees off "horizonal"), yeah, you need support.

ABS and PLA, yes. PETG sticks to itself like mad. If a "tall" part fails it's due to stress cracks originating at all those inside corners, not due to layer adhesion.

Most of the non-structural parts (brackets and such) of my electric motorcycle conversion are 3D printed PETG. Like any tech, you need to understand its strengths and weaknesses to use it successfully.

Reply to
DJ Delorie

Yup. Plenty of videos already, search for "3d printing bridging" Here's a sample:

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Generally, yes.

230C for the brand I use (Atomic)
Reply to
DJ Delorie

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