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Quick & Dirty Current Shunt

I may get one later, after I get tired of using something hacked up.

Good suggestion.

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Reply to
Tim Wescott
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Ah ha! Thanks -- I have some stainless welding rod in the metal shop, it doesn't attract a magnet so it should be close to 302; a length of that should do just fine, and if I come up with the right clamps it'll even be calibratible.

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http://www.wescottdesign.com
Reply to
Tim Wescott

I used to support NiCr with tensioning springs, so it could thermally stretch, but not sag ;-)

...Jim Thompson

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| James E.Thompson, P.E.                           |    mens     |
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Reply to
Jim Thompson

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it

isn't filler rod normally something like 308 ?

maybe it doesn't make a big difference...

-Lasse

Reply to
langwadt

just do a 4 wire connection, you can use a 1K pot to adjust the gain,

Reply to
Jasen Betts

What is really incorrect about these SMT "shunts" is that most of them ARE NOT KELVIN and it is not clear how to lay out traces for them to make them into a true kelvin system.

Reply to
Robert Baer

If you make a shunt from a metal chunk or a hefty piece of wire you can fine adjust it with a file. Also, meters last longer if they are attached to the shunt rather than in parallel with the shunt at the terminals! This sort of project can lead to unflattering nicknames like "Smoky" or "Zap"!

John Ferrell W8CCW

Reply to
John Ferrell

If any of them is new, it should be stamped near one end.

But I'd still recommend the hobby shop and some brass shim stock; or even a piece of PC board - true, you'd have the tempco to deal with, but how hot do you expect this thing to get?

Cheers! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

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