reading the wikipedia page:
seems you need to drive the power_on pin to low and also connect the +3.3V_ sense to a +3.3V line.
Bye Jack
reading the wikipedia page:
seems you need to drive the power_on pin to low and also connect the +3.3V_ sense to a +3.3V line.
Bye Jack
This document
suggests that there will be minimum load requirements on both 12V outputs, the 5V output and the 3.3V output. Based on the power specification of the PSU, you might want to try loads giving minimum currents for one of tables 3 thru 6.
You'll have a fair amount of heat to get rid of.
Sylvia.
Seen a goodly number of Youtube "presentations" showing an ATX supply as a (potential) power source. Common representation is the basic box with banana connectors for the
+3.3V, +5V and the +12V and NO load. Claims are like "useful bench supply".IN PRACTICE: I tried all of the following combinations of loads on the +5V and
+12V1: no load, 1K, 100 ohm, 10 ohm, 1 ohm. In most cases, the supply "burped" and shut down. In only a few cases, it stayed on for up to 30 seconds.Have not tried leaving the +12V1 open and the various loads on +12V2.
Goal: to draw from 10mA to 10A at (about) 12V.
So, any pointers how to get (one of the ATX supplys) to work on a continuous basis with stated output?
No sure if you are just making use of an old unused PSU but if you are prepared to buy a new PSU you can find ones that can run regulated with no external load required. Think they might be referred to as 'Haswell compatible' or similar (as these CPU's can drop their power requirements very very low).
I think that depends (a lot) on the actual power supply's design.
I just brought home some small supplies out of a server to use as 12V "battery eliminators" (12V @ 70A). They run well with NO loads on ANY of the outputs.
YMMV.
Yes, though the OP's is presumably not one such, or he wouldn't be having difficulties.
It's generally easier to find out what one has to do to stop something working, than what one has to do to make it work. The OP's sensible course is to load up all the outputs, and then see how much of the load can be removed from each, being aware that there may be an interaction between them.
Sylvia.
Sure, plenty instructions are all over the internet:
I've converted a few for various dumb reasons. No big deal. However, I did run into a few obstacles:
Good luck.
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Have you seen these dual display, digital meters? They are small enough that you can use one for each output. Unfortunately, the lowest current I found was 0-10A You can also find 0-50A and 0-100A.
DC-0-30V-10A-Voltmeter-Ammeter-Red-LED-Panel-Amp-Digital-Volt-Gauge-/
I bought a pair of them to rpeair a HP 6253A power supply with damaged meters.
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Sure. I use them for all kinds of strange things. I even have one installed under the hood of my car. Mostly, they are connected to various solar charging schemes.
As usual, there are problems.
The meter may show 3 digits, but no way is it accurate to one LSB. I've connected a bunch of the USB volt/amp meters in series to a load. In theory, they should all read the same voltage and current. I didn't keep score, but the numbers were all over the place. I would guess(tm) about +/-0.5V accuracy.
The combination volt/amp meters are positive common with current sensing on the negative line. See wiring diagram near the bottom of: Note that the positive (red) wires are common and that the shunt is inserted in the negative (black) line.
For example, if I were to measure the output of a solar panel, with the meter inserted between the panel and the controller, I would be faced with the impossibility of grounding both the controller and the negative wire of the panel. The same would be true for the OP's ATX power supply. He could ground the ATX negative line(s) or the load, but not both. As far as I can tell, they're all like that.
There's also a problem of how to supply power to run the meter, but that's easily solved with a floating DC-DC converter.
I've had to resort to using seperate voltmeter and ammeter devices, with at least one DC-DC converter. I haven't spend any time finding a better or more elegant solution. Suggestions are always welcome.
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Robert Baer prodded the keyboard with:
Hi Robert,
Connect the green wire to any black wire. This will switch the PSU on. You also may need to draw around 50 to 100 ma from the 5 volt line.
Somewhere kicking around I have some connectors that plug into any of the four pin plugs with 47 ohm resistors wired between the 5V and ground. In the early days many PSU wouldn't start up without a load on the 5V rail.
HTH.
-- Best Regards: Baron.
If about 12V is what you really want, you might be better off finding surplus laptop power supplies.
Michael
Try loading the 3.3V line. I know folks who have done this for battery charging, and they claim it works.
Or, buy something surplus from MPJA that just does the job.
-- www.wescottdesign.com
Theres a schematic here
Typically a load on the +5v rail, like a Floppy disk drive, should start them up,
Cheers
You can buy that breakout board $13.80 and acrylic case $4.00 from Seeed Studio:
-- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
the +3.3V_sense to a +3.3V line.
Hot stuff fer sure. Basically the problem is that both 12V outputs must be loaded along with the +5V lines and the Youtube "articles" gloss over the necessary loadings. Thanks.
This IS anew supply and the article that Sylvia gave suggest that external loads ARE required in the real world.
May i read in a few qualifiers: "small supplies" and "out of a server".
Thanks, everyone; all of the above should get me (and the supply) on track.
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