OT: Brake sensor switch in master reservoir, how does it work?

Some obvious suggestions;

Try Google. I did this for my Nissan front brakes. They had worn so badly I was too embarassed to take it to the shop! Wow!! What an easy repair job. Both front (disc) in less than an hour, in my driveway! If I had known it was that easy, I'd never have let them get that worn. Total job cost: $26.

Google is your friend.

Or, better yet, you could try Click and Clack over at CarTalk.com They have a really good forum there. I'll bet someone there knows the exact answer to your questions. Link:

Good luck.

-mpm

Ours (Kenmore) has this sort of valve:

Intake is on the other side and metal, what you see is the outlets. Connection to the wall is one of those expensive fiber-reinforced white hoses. I never had a leak on any of those, so far.

It'll be hard for them to wiggle out of, if good brand name stuff was used and properly installed.

But it's practical since it warns people when their drive with the parking brake still engaged.

Did. What I found was that lots of others had the same light come on because the reservoir switch seems to be the nervous kind.

Pads are ok. Maybe it's really a float switch and the float floateth no more.

Thanks, I'll give that a try. But now, back to the Weber for some steak :-)

There is your fix: unplug it.

PeterD wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

maybe he needs a brake fluid flush;perhaps there's some crud in the reservoir and it's making the sensor float stick.

Unplug it for a little while to see if the light continues to blink. It could be a short to ground somewhere or it could be from the switch in the emergency brake handle. Make sure you have your emergency brake all the way off.

Hope you see this message. I got rid of Supernews, too much spam.

:-(

The stainless braid prevents them from getting cut on sharp edges and in case of an aneurysm they tend to contain the bulge so it doesn't further weaken. The probability of a catastrophic failure are greatly reduced.

They're what our insurance agent told us to use (some time back, admittedly). They'll pay in any case. They may cancel your insurance after, making it impossible to get insurance again, but they'll pay.

Without the braid the hose may wear against sharp edges.

The big problem isn't pinhole leaks, rather a burst bubble. You'll likely notice a small leak before it turns into a disaster but a 1/2" hole while you're at work, not so much.

That symptom is usually worn brake pads that have a wear sensor.....

There is that possibility that air bubbles could be getting in the system from a leaky wheel brake cylinder or caliber O-rings/Glans. If that being the case, it really should be looked at. Many times tapping on the sensor just causes the bubble to burp out of the chamber.

Usage of the brakes takes time for the bubble to reach the master cylinder. In most systems, the bubble will dissipate, which maybe the reason for the randomness action.

Thats weird. Brake fluid is supposed to be clear. I guess the brake fluid needs replacing asap.

How old is the vehicle? I've seen brake hose disintegration darken the fluid :-( ...Jim Thompson

Who said? and if it's a different color than it should be, there is something wrong in your system.

I've never seen other brake fluid than clear brake fluid when it was new. Brake fluid attracts water (hygroscopic) and corrodes the inside of the brake system. That ultimately results in black brake fluid. At that point it usually means revising or replacing the brakes (and the clutch cylinders as well if you have a manual gearbox).

In the US that can be different. Polyglycol DOT3 often gets a color mixed in so you can easily spot a leak. A clear drop on the floor could easily be mistaken for melted snow, not so good. You can get this stuff in crimson red and all sorts of other colors.

This car doesn't have wear sensors in them and the pads look fine. But soon I'll change them anyhow because of age. We drive so little that I even had to throw out tires on my SUV that had a good 50% of their thread left (at around 60,000 miles), because they were 10 years old and I didn't want to go past that.

Could be the switch in the combination valve, or as someone else pointed out the Emergency break switch. I've rarely seen a float switch on US autos.

Cheers

It's really the reservoir switch. Toyota isn't exactly a US car :-)

Although, ours was produced in Fremont, California, at the NUMMI plant. They are going to shut that place down soon :-(

They're as common as on foreign cars. Just checked my cars: jeep doesn't have a float switch; dodge intrepid does. The switch on the dodge is integral to the master cylinder tank, not in the cap.

"Martin Riddle" wrote in news:hjilds$u45$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:

I had a float switch in my 94 Acura Integra GS-R. It was built into the reservoir cap,though.