Mechanical Strength of Surface-Mount?

Tim Wescott wrote in news:pu2dnbuTipri427VnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@web-ster.com:

You can use that part with a through hole to bolt it down.

In my deep dark non-IC-world past, I used an eyelet to hold it in place, then soldered front and back.

...Jim Thompson

I saw that. My question is, do I need to, or is this one of those things that looks fragile but is strong in truth?

There's an equivalent through-hole part that would probably get the nod if I don't use the surface-mount part.

Scott Seidman wrote in news:Xns9B3684F142087scottseidmanmindspri@130.133.1.4:

like using vias for "eyelets"??

On a sunny day (Mon, 13 Oct 2008 09:59:43 -0700) it happened Tim Wescott wrote in :

Yes, seems the right picture.

Would not risk it, but use through-hole.

We're such cowards.

Clearly I need to hire someone to design this board, and insist on the surface mount part. Then I can take the credit for the $.05 savings/board, and blame the designer when they don't stay stuck...

Tim Wescott wrote in news:feudnTMH0YiiH27VnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@web-ster.com:

It's only as strong as the bond between the copper and the substrate. I've pulled off enough solder pads during construction than I wouldn't trust it. I wouldn't even trust the thru-hole part, in truth. Give me a good old- fashioned mechanical connector every time for a part people are likely to be yanking on.

On a sunny day (Mon, 13 Oct 2008 11:03:52 -0700) it happened Tim Wescott wrote in :

Yes, that one, there are even better ones with both clips connected by a plasic base.

Scott is absolutely right. The one that you showed us is intended for not only a through-hole board, but a screw and lockwasher/nut, probably 4-40.

Cheers! Rich

Do you get to add to the user manual? You could write a disclaimer, like, "use EXTREME care when replacing F1 - circuit traces may lift if force is applied incorrectly." ;-)

Cheers! Rich

Rich Grise wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@example.net:

You could also sell stuffed replacement boards at an obscene price!

If you want a surface mount fuse with holder, try something like this:

Or maybe you can get away with a polyfuse?

In that case, you'd have already soldered the fuse in. ;-)

Cheers! Rich

$1.25 in qty 1000, nonstocking, from Digi-Key. The part I mentioned (and it's through-hole version) is about $0.20 in qty 10. Even needing one for each side of the fuse, I still come out ahead.

The last time I evaluated a polyfuse it was for something that had to operate from -40 to +85C; polyfuses don't work over those temperature ranges.

$1.25 in qty 1000, nonstocking, from Digi-Key. The part I mentioned (and it's through-hole version) is about $0.20 in qty 10. Even needing one for each side of the fuse, I still come out ahead.

The last time I evaluated a polyfuse it was for something that had to operate from -40 to +85C; polyfuses don't work over those temperature ranges.

So I'm used to thinking "Polyfuse -- Yuck".

But maybe it'll work.

Maybe with some vias in the pads? though manufacturing doesn't always like that.

can that fuse holder be placed by machine?

Usually the reason people here try to get everything SMT is because it can be mounted by machine. where as through-hole means hand mounting or/and a different soldering.

-Lasse

I've seen a lot of those pulled off PC boards, both cracked solder joints, and melted solder from 20 A fuses run close to the limit.

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I'll be selling it with my name on it, so -- no, that's not the strategy I wish to take.

Good, since naming your business after yourself as you've done makes it a lot harder to "hide." :-)