LED lighting ?

stove

Indoors CO2 concentrations of over a thousand PPM are not uncommon. I live where I can leave the windows open pretty much year round.

"Nico Coesel"

Piss off.

stove

OSHA and Navy submarine limits are in the 6000-8000 PPM range, something like that. A typical college lecture hall will run 600-1000. Greenhouse people like around 1000 to make their plants happy.

Oh, I forgot to mention, don't open any beers.

Each bulb keeps several tons of CO2 from being emitted by a power plant. If it's a coal plant it also keeps almost a gram of mercury and several radioactive isotopes out of the biosphere. Do you prefer living in a cancerous biosphere?

The total energy saving is virtually nil ( compared to regular incandescents ) when you include all the manufacturing processes and hidden issues with CFLs.

One Australian state has 98% hydro power, but incandescents are still banned from sale there.

Got the numbers from some green nazi web site did you ?

F*ck off - you rabid nut case.

.... Phil

Actually, you are. An LED puts out far more light per watt of power than practically any other man made source to date... Bub.

Yeah... that is why *we* are touting the LEDs, idiot.

Injection molded plastic case and optics, in most cases, and basic chip epitaxy.

Where is all the wasted carbon in the mfg process?

But is it OK to use electric cooking appliances?

There are a few, but *very few* plants which pre-process their coal and remove some aspects from the media before burning

Some details are common knowledge. Coal fired plants have been being scrutinized since the early seventies, Lots of real engineering back and now, still in the works.

^ IFYPFY

You forgot the comma to separate your insult from your sig.

Yep... that's you.

Prolly hear from the pommy retard soon too. He cannot stand not chiming in like the retard HE IS when he gets a briar under his saddle.

Therein lies one of the big drawbacks to takeup of the current field of LED lamps - the colour temp choice. It seems to be between two types, 6000C. Somewhere around 4500-5000 would be far more acceptable for general use IMHO.

"who where"

.... Phil

The only way I could understand those claims is that the chip is actually a 1500 mA ("4.5 W") device or at least other manufacturers might claim that for a similar chip.

Run the characteristics at 700 mA or 1000 mA, well below the absolute maximum current and get very impressive figures :-).

Since no serious designer would use the chip at 1500 mA anyway (no characteristics), it does not hurt sales much, by declaring only 1000 mA absolute maximum current and also give some characteristics for

While I prefer /940 to /965 series linear fluorescent (4000 K - 6500 K, Ra > 90), I still think that only below 3000 K LEDs are usable for indoor use.

The cool "white" over 6000 K LEDs have a very strong but narrow blue spectral component from the chip itself and a broad but weaker red-green output from a phosphor and a deep dip around 480 nm.

Not according to a real test with LED bulbs you can actually buy.

And not according to Philips. CFL tubes reach 100Lm/W:

While LED tubes reach 72Lm/W:

LEDs are getting close but the statement they output far more light than CFL is still a lie.

"Nico Coesel"

Current LED lamps beat CFLs mainly in lifespan, being fast on and insensitivity to low temps.

... Phil

It is 'K", idiots!

'Frost free' includes a heat cycle to melt any frost. There is a pan under the fridge where the codensation collects to evaporate. Every time you open the door, damp air is sucked in, then condenses when the interior cools down.

If they are talking about binning, they are doing production testing. You don't really expect them to wait for the device to achieve operating temperature do you?

The lifetime and actual lumens rating should be done under more realistic conditions, but production testing has to be done on the fly as best they can. Otherwise the bulbs will be twice the price or even higher.

Not trying to be too pedantic, but CFL is "compact" fluorescent lamp. The long tube types are just fluorescent lamps, not CFL. When people talk about tube CFL it makes me thing they are talking about some of the more oddly shaped bulbs like the one in a desk lamp I have.

I'm not crazy about CFLs myself although I don't agree with Phil that all his complaints are valid. I have used fluorescent tubes for a long time in areas of the house that don't need "pretty" lights, but do need a lot of light, like my workshop. At $1 each, the standard 4 foot bulb is the cheapest lamp to buy (possibly a bit more due to inflation, it's been a while since I've bought any).

I will acknowledge that incandescent bulbs are ready to be tossed, but I don't agree that they need to ban them. There are some situations where CFLs and LEDs just don't work. CFL bulbs are terrible when cold, so outside use is in terribly practical. LEDs are still just too expensive if there is any risk of damage or theft.

No, Phil is right, only the best LEDs, when run very efficiently, as from switching-type current regulators, are a bit more efficient than a CFL. Now, Cree and others have new stuff coming from the lab that will do better. Right now, above 100 Lm/W starts to get REALLY expensive, like US $7 per individual LED, while 100 Lm/W is available at about US $1 each for a 100 Lm unit in single quantity.

When the 200 Lm/W devices become the standard components in, maybe, a year, then they will start to leave the CFL behind.

Jon

I just did an extensive search at Digi-Key, ranking their LEDs by Lm/W, and there is an affordable device that is over 100 Lm/W. That is the XPEBWT-01, 104 Lm at 350 mA, or 102 Lm/W at that current. It costs US $1.72 in single quantity, and $1.52 at one hundred. This is their recommended current, the max is 1 A.

This looked to me to be the best price/performance part. I'm going to get some and see how they look (literally, in this case!)

Jon

That is not a CFL, it is a linear fluorescent tube and the power consumption is for the tube only. Add to this the losses in the control gear.

For E27 based CFLs, the rated consumption is for the whole unit, including the control gear.

This is rated for 100 - 230 V, so there must be some internal control gear in the tube. My Dutch is bad, so I can not tell, if the choke in the luminaire needs to be bypassed or not (causing additional losses).

This is the consumption of the LEDs them self, less control gear losses.

You get quite different lm/W values depending if the control gear losses are included or not.