induction motor vs "universal" motor - damaged by low voltage?

Jul 28, 2008 14 Replies

I recently had a good quality corded drill fail after less than 4 years (see link for pictures/details). I just read that running such tools with very long or thin extension cords can make them fail, due to the voltage drop in the extension cord causing the motor to draw excessive current.



I've always known that running an induction motor on low voltage causes execssive current and overheating, but I don't see how that could be the case for "universal" motors with commutators. I mean, isn't that how the trigger varies the speed of the drill, by reducing the voltage to the motor? Reduced voltage due to losses in your cord should just make the drill run slower, unless am I missing something here??



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Long extension cord? How long is long? The cord was rated for how many amps?

What voltage & current did the drill require?

Michael

Over the 4 year life of the drill, I've used numerous different extension cords. can't remember them all.

The drill is rated 6 amps @ 120 volt.

here's the link to the original article i was reffering to:

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but my point is that it shouldn't matter how long the cord, or how much the voltage drop, for these types of motors the lower voltage would just result in lower RPM's. unless I'm missing something...

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No it don't matter, you got screwed!. Cheap drill. Low brush level. Crap speed control in trigger. most of those use a electronic speed control and most are junk!.

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The problem is not long cords, but temperature rise caused by long periods of near stall operation. The fan effectiveness falls rapidly as the speed slows. After 4 years use, brush wear might also be a failure mode.

Regards, John Popelish

Nah, I brought a lot of 230V tools across the ocean during our move to the US. They all run happily on 120V, just with a lot less oomph. In fact, I sanded the paint off of our huge deck. The Bosch 230V electric drill ran a sanding disk more or less 10h non-stop for several days. This drill is now about 30 years old, never needed new brushes and I've beaten the dickens out of that machine.

Hmm, and I though DeWalt is a good brand. Hmm ...

Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ "gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam. Use another domain or send PM.

in all fairness, I must report that a rep from Dewalt called me about

12 hours after I emailed them**, and said they would mail out a new switch to me, or I could bring the drill to one of their repair centers for free repair. So I am still happy with Dewalt, hopefully this switch failure was a fluke. **I submitted by complaint via the standard email address on their website, and got back a standard "only a repair center can determine warranty elligibility... blah blahh". However, I also emailed a link to my website to everyone on the Dewalt board of directors, and any other dewalt (and black and decker) email addresses google dug up...

"NG Neer"

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** The story is complete bollocks, another dopey myth about failure causation.

As you would expet from someone talking about something way outside his field.

..... Phil

Smart! I have to remember that trick. Email the whole board of directors... hmm...

Michael

Personally, I'd say voltage had little or nothing to do with the failure. I see that Dewalt has done the 'right' thing, and you are set...

I did the same with a Hamilton Beach blender that croaked after a dozen uses. Was just over the warranty. They had chrome plated the shaft and the plating had come off, clearly a mfg defect. After some email back and forth they basically said "too bad, out of warranty, buy the spares" which is almost the cost of a new blender with all the S&H fees. Last time we ever bought that brand. The perfect method to erode a customer base (there is a neighborhood here ...) and work up a poor reputation.

Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ "gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam. Use another domain or send PM.

I don't think Fluke had anything to do with it unless their equipment was being used in the engineering process! :)

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Our guys at work use Dewalt cordless equipment, We find they last no longer or are made any better than the average Sear's Crapmans drills.

There might have been a time where they did last but I think they all now made in the same place!

It's just a name you're paying for.!

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Depends on the Crapsman product. Some are relabeled DeWalts, but that doesn't mean they're the same thing. I've long given up on Crapsman tools (other than wrenches). I had a circular saw that wouldn't cut a straight line. Forget the sabre saw. I've recently bought a bunch of DeWalts because one of the BORGs here has put ridiculous prices on them[*], at times.

[*] 12V driver/drill w/2 batteries for $50, 18V Heavy Duty Driver Drill w/2 high capacity batteries for $100. ...cheaper than the batteries alone.

Some are.

Because they were made in the same place does not imply they are the same product. Sears puts specs out to bid. Whoever meets those specs...

Keith

We had to replace the batteries in each Dewalt device we got shortly after we started to use them. A couple of them only lasted for 1 charge. the next charge, the batteries were completely non responsive to a charge. We found the recent 1/2 and 3/8 " drive cordless from Crapsman to have the same problem. After ripping apart a couple we noticed that both Crapmans and Dewalts cells were the same ones. (Made in China)..

So, I don't know what to say how ever, I my self still have an older larger crapsman cordless that still works and it has gone through hell.!

they stop making these of course. Most likely because they hold up to well.

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