How to read this electronic component?

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 |

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D

=A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0 =A0|

Looks like a diode, or maybe a surge supressor or some sort. Are you able to trace out anything it's connected to, or can you post a photo of it? That would help. (Someone here might recognize the numbers.)

-mpm

Thanks, I'll post a picture of it when I get home. This thing has a cylinder shape. Most of the resistors I see at radio shack has a straight peanut shape (larger and round ends).

You're probably right. I found a page here:

Which say a diode with label: ST; BZV; 47C; 24; C848 is a ST Micro zener, BZV47C24, rated 24 Volts, 5%, 2 Watts.

In my case, the component may be a bit different (I'll have to double check on the underside of it).

This is not a binaries newsgroup so find somewhere to post it, and provide a link here.

Here is the link to the images:

The component is definitely the same as above: BZV47C24. So, I take the spec as: ST Micro zener, BZV47C24, rated 24 Volts, 5%, 2 Watts.

Now, my question is how to get this component. I search on the internet and a few sites offer it, but they ask to buy in high quantity. I also wonder what other equivalent diodes out there that I can use, if I cannot find this component.

This site has it, but $250 minimum, and business buyer only.

(snip)

You skipped a question. Why do you think you need to replace this component?

Looking at the board and the backside of it, I see the color on the board beneath the component brown/dark out. I assume it's burnt. I hope that after fixing this, there won't be more problem. However, you're right that this is not very scientific. Do you know you to trouble shoot thing like this without proper schematic diagram? Some chips appear to be impossible to test. I already take out this diode. I think I can test this by hooking it up to a voltage source serial with a resistor. If the electric flows (measure current), in both direction, that would be a bad diode. However, that only test a diode, not the board. I only have a digital multi-meter for this.

This color change indicates that the component above operates at a high temperature. Zener diodes, especially multi watt versions, often operate at a temperature high enough to slowly discolor epoxy. It does not necessarily indicate the problem. Do you have a digital meter with a diode test range that you can use to test this component?

No. There are some in circuit tests you can make with a digital multimeter, and some further component tests you can make by unsoldering some components, but without knowing what the board is supposed to do, it is difficult to trouble shoot why it isn't doing it.

Yes, most diode failures result in a shorted junction. If you have a multimeter with a diode test range (indicated by a diode symbol) it provides a small current between the leads, and a millivolt indication of the drop across them. Most diodes will show 500 to 600 millivolts in the forward direction, and no reading (blocked current) in the other. To test a zener beyond that, requires that you apply more than the zener voltage, with a series current limiting resistor, while you measure the voltage drop across it.

Almost certainly. The only difficulty may be getting the larger leads to go through the holes. You may have to solder a correctly sized wire in each hole, and attach the diode to those leads.

As hot as the board got, I think I would mount the new one spaced a little bit above the board, maybe with a bit of heat sink soldered to each side of the body. This could be as simple as wrapping a n inch of wire once around the lead, and soldering it in place, so the two ends stick out into the air above the diode.