household outdoor/wet location connections

Just a thought:

When the wife and I were discussing building a house someday, and we were were looking at the communications area (voice and data), we decided that, since all power wiring was to be in EMT conduit, all comms cable would be run in EMT conduit as well. 3/4" EMT minimum for comms, which would easily permit two RG-6/RG-59 coax and six CAT-5e cables to be pulled. More expensive, yes, be *we* were to build the house, not contract it out.

(In the last 20 years I've worked as a carpenter, electrician, plumber, sheetrock installer, painter, roofer, tile-setter, equipment operator, vinyl siding installer, mason, and a few other trades.)

By running EMT between the server/comms room to each wall box (with no pull boxes where possible), if necessary it would be a simple matter to pull another cable to a given box for added functionality.

Since we had decided on drop ceilings throughout the house, running the EMT overhead would permit easy access to those pull boxes that had to be installed.

God Bless.

Not all localities require power to run in EMT. The few places that I've lived that *did* were actually surprising (i.e., the requirement had little rational basis).

It's not always easy to do that. Nor to guarantee that you'll be able to make that pull at a later date (in the presence of existing cables). If you want to eliminate pull boxes *and* allow the EMT to be "hidden" (behind finished walls/ceilings), the route you can take is severely constrained. No tight bends, reduce the total number of bends, etc.

E.g., running a new, below grade electrical service is a great example of this. Since the cable (at LEAST #6SE-3 or better) has to be pulled through an oversized conduit to get to the riser, there are rules regarding minimum turn radius, total angular displacement, etc. And that's with a conduit *significantly* larger than the cable diameter!

You could find yourself, after the fact, with lots of pretty conduit that doesn't give you the flexibility you *thought* it would.

This can help, some -- as can an attic or basement. But note that fire code will usually require firestops that effectively interrupt that open space. You'll be able to do more "point to point" runs than you would, otherwise. But still have to deal with getting into and out of that space (i.e., two 90's at a minimum).

You might find it better (at least for comms wiring, etc.) to spend the money you would have spent on the EMT for extra cable, instead. And, just run blind drops inside walls wherever you might *conceivably* want them. Then (!!!!) keep good records of where those drops actually are in the walls (along with the relative positions of adjacent studs) so you can open any wall cavity *knowing* you'll find the drop within inches of the opening you cut!

This would especially be helpful for connections "mounted high" where you don't want to commit to a "visible indication" of their presence (at the time of construction). E.g., I have three modest sized (12 to 19" dia) touch panels mounted on walls throughout the connections for which will require a fair bit of work to *hide* if they are ever removed/taken out of service.

(At least that's how *I* would tackle it for new construction)

all

No, not all localities do. Mine doesn't. This doesn't prevent me from going above and beyond code, however.

BTW, I do own copies of both the IRC and NEC (the NEC because the IRC changes the all the chapter and section numbers and I am more familiar with the NEC than the IRC).

another

No, it isn't. Where the need was indicated, 1" or larger EMT would have been run. All necessary pull boxes would be documented as to size and location on the comms plan, which would be on display in the server/comms room.

My idea was to document everything on the plans, electrical, comms, plumbing, HVAC, etc., not just for whomever had the house after use, but for myself. (Things have a habit of moving by themselves over the years...at least thats what my memory tells me.)

Conduit is inexpensive compared to the cost of time, equipment, labor, etc., required to do the the first time. By considering not only the present requirements but possible future requirements (as I did for this house), and making allowances for those possible future requirements, the size of conduit can be increased if necessary to allow for future expansion.

And, no offense, but I am well aware of the bending requirements for conduits and the maximum conduit fill. Also, I am aware of the (typically) 25-pound pull force limit for CAT-5e.

Pulling lubricant is a wire/cable pullers friend.

Taking the time to carefully consider current needs as well as future needs helps to mitigate this. ALL future needs cannot be practically allowed for, of course.

FMC (flexible metal conduit) can be fish through walls about as easily as fishing a cable. Actually, I've found in many cases fishing FMC to be easier to fish down a wall: it's stiffer and less likely to curl up *IN* the wall and not drop down to the hole cut for the box.

installed.

This was taken into consideration as well. Again, careful planning is required here.

I have used a fire caulk (expands when heated to further seal the gap) on a job before. This was one of the requirements I had added to our spec list.

Good point. However, after working in commercial wiring running conduit of many types, I prefer having that point-to-point chase. Anyone who's crawled under a house or in an attic with barely enough room to breath, let alone actually move around, will (hopefully) understand my preference.

Yes, may be hard to hide.

We decided *NOT* to worry so much about later moving/removing connections point (jacks, etc.) as patching drywall was not a problem (and I've patched *a lot* of drywall in my years. Years ago I removed a window in a house, closed in the hole, and patched the drywall and the vinyl siding. My wife was amazed that she couldn't tell where the window had been on the inside, and could barely tell where it had been on the outside.

Everyone has their own ideas. It all depends on their needs, circumstances, desires, and whatever limitations they have.

We chose to list our needs and desires, then shoot for the moon, see how far we could get, then go from there. :)

God Bless.

were

all

than

But, of course, what *really* matters is the local code. And *it* consists largely of references to the IRC, etc. -- EXCEPT when there is something that the yokels decided they were more "expert" about :-/

another

the

You'd be amazed at how easily building documents tend to "get lost" over the life of a house. I went to the city to see what information they had on *this* house. A few minutes later, they came back with the file -- completely empty. "Your house wasn't in the city limits when it was built" yadayadayada...

So, I drafted an approximate plan (a tape rule and AutoCAD) so that I could do simple things:

- how many tiles will we need to purchase to tile the floor

- where are each of the outlets/switches located

- what are the branch circuits servicing each of the above, etc.

Some time later, I encountered someone with a similar floor plan (minor differences: he didn't have a sunken living room, no fireplace, different elevation, etc.) who *had* a copy of his original drawing set. This helped me figure out where the footings were located, which walls were load bearing, etc.

Yes. It is just phenomenally hard to predict the future! :>

E.g., when I put in the front sidewalk, I ran three lengths of 4" dia pipe under it (three different locations) -- "for future use". That was almost 20 years ago and I *think* I will have *a* use for one of those channels this summer (another irrigation line).

I'll do the same when I replace the (concrete) driveway but *never* expect to need them (a case of doing something to *ensure* you won't need it? Which of murphy's laws/corollaries is that?? :> )

I use "muletape" (TmReg) when I'm pulling through EMT -- which is typically only for power cable (the stuff I have would probably be overkill for comm cable). So far, it has worked admirably.

I've not had any problems with any of my blind drops getting hung up in the wall (everything here has to be fed from above -- no basement). But, then again, I would tape the CAT3, CAT5 and RG6Q together as I fed them into the wall. The RG6 really tends to enforce its will on the other two stragglers (who might otherwise be more inclined to coil up)

installed.

here.

It isn't required in many localities. Nor, in all locations *within* a building. OTOH, some parts of buildings (and some *types* of buildings) have extra needs. E.g., 2 hour fire resistance of certain walls, ceilings, etc.

Frankly, I don't see the issue of *not* using these things everywhere. Yeah, it's an extra labor step. Yeah, the caulk is considerably more expensive than "silicone caulk". But, in the grand scheme of things, it's just a little blip.

Frankly, my "drool item" would be a basement + sub-basement. The former so you can *work* without having to worry about appearances, cleaning up "any time soon", etc. And the latter for long term storage.

But, I think the stairs would be annoying -- especially as I get older :< So, add a freight elevator to the list (think about the sorts of tools and equipment you would likely want "down there"!).

Basements are *so* much nicer than attics, IMO. Quiet, comfortable, isolated, "secure", etc.

of

The style in this part of the country is for textured walls and ceilings. *Lots* of texture. I suspect some of this is cultural but even more of it is to lower the quality of workmanship required (!). I've been (slowly) going through the house trying to replace walls to remove all of the texture. A *lot* harder as you have to be really good at taping and finish sanding, etc.

But, it just looks *so* much nicer than the knockdown textures! Especially when you can see the reflection of a light source

A friend on the east coast has a VERY aggressive texture on his walls -- almost half an inch thick! I have no idea how he can: - keep it clean (you could "store grapes" in the recesses in the texture! imagine dust/dirt!!) - cut into it (without *breaking* large pieces) - repair those cuts, "seamlessly"

Hello. How are you doing?

than

Of Course. Always, always, *ALWAYS* check with the local building department god to find out *their* code requirements.

Yes, they do get lost/never archived. I would provide them, in one location (mounted to the wall in a manner they could be easily removed for use). If they get lost after I'm gone then, sorry, I provided the documentation, best I could do. If the docs get lost/damaged/destroyed/ no offense, but oh well.

The local BD would be offered a copy as well.

I used QuickCAD (poor mans AutoCAD; it does what I need it to). And yes, I've had to completely measure a house, inside and out, and draw up a plan.

Load-bearing walls/supports should, IMHO, *always* be identified on final as-built drawings.

pull

Pulling lubricant can make pulling wire/cable even easier then using a fish tape/muletape alone. Except, of course, that time on the job we popped a 2000 Lb-test mule*ROPE* pulling a 200-pair phone cable through a 3-inch RNC. FOUR TIMES. The last time the fellow on the pulling said the last time the mulerope snapped just outside the conduit. It shot down into like a bullet.) We ended up guesstimating where the cable was and dug up the conduit to re-attach the mulerope. Seems the cable got hung on the end of the pipe that wasn't fully seated in the bell end.

job

Sadly, no, it isn't required in all localities. And I don't see the issue of

Down here in The South, basements are not very common from what I know/researched. I don't why, but yes, a basement is very useful.

And I researched the requirements on residential elevators, as the wife pointed out the very good possibility of needing one, considering her bad hip would make climbing up and down stairs everyday a chore.

If the car is no more than 15 sq. ft. in area (at least here in SC), a license would not be required for a residential elevator. We chose Thyssen-Krupp as the manufacturer as of all the elevators I've traveled in, T-Ks are the smoothest and quietest operating. And I liked the simple engineering and design of the T-K residential elevator systems. I even downloaded all the documentation for one of T-Ks models, wiring diagrams and all.

However, I personally would prefer installing a commercial-style elevator, even though it requires an operators license.

Once (if) you get the hang of mudding and taping (untextured) drywall, it is fairly easy. I'm not an expert at it, but as much taping and mudding as I've done I should be.

It does look a lot nicer without all the texturing, a (properly done) sand texture aside (haven't yet quite got the hang of sand texturing).

Better him than me to clean it. Bet cats would love to climb his walls!

God Bless.

Hi Thomas,

I did the interior and exterior of the house plus the plot itself. Helpful for keeping track of where I buried all the irrigation lines (no fun "hunting" for them at some later date!)

job

Simple: the folks doing the work are usually not the ones who will be LIVING in the building! :<

I think you might have problems with water table (depending on where you actually are). Here I think they just don't see the "need" and they represent a sizable construction expense.

make

I think you can get "chair lifts" for that sort of thing. A friend diagnosed with ALS is going through that process, now. :<

T-K

of

There are some that are hydraulic driven -- entirely from below. Regardless, a silly expense (in my case) as it is just as easy to live in a single level floor plan.

We looked at a home with an outlying building intended for "overflow automobile storage" (i.e., 4 more bays in addition to the 3 that were the real "garage"). But, the property was just too big and too much maintenance (pool, spa, etc.).

While I would have enjoyed commandeering that building for my shop, I am tickled NOT to have had to deal with all the other headaches that a property of that sort would have entailed!

(I am getting lazy in my old age. :> )

Yes. Patience and a good eye are all you need. But, it is *terribly* messy work!

Yes! The texture was *so* aggressive that you could actually hurt yourself if you brushed into it (you really *could* get a grape to fit and *stay* in any of the little nooks in the texture). The mud used was exceedingly hard to resist crumbling (because the texture was so "exposed")

Ha! Never thought of that!

I suspect cleaning is impractical. I think you count on the dirt not being recognizable as such as the recesses typically look to be "in shadow". Shadow, dust...

I prefer a nice smooth finish with a semi-gloss paint that presents a wipe clean finish (No thank you to wallpaper!)