Help identifying a component

I'm a fool because I reported a story that I know is true? My friend was a maintenance tech in a large installation and got a bit of a ding to his reputation because of this. He thought of it as preventive maintenance, but the lab workers didn't appreciate being without their gear for a couple of weeks until it was repaired.

You are aware that different plastics respond differently to the various solvents in WD-40, right?

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Rick

** Maybe you think it is true - but then you are a complete fool.

** No at all.

When used as a switch, pot and contact cleaner - it is harmless to all the plastics you find in electronics.

Obviously YOU have NO experience with WD40 or any of the many similar products when used for this purpose and so DO NOT KNOW !!

.... Phil

No point in replying to this...

Who the hell hasn't used WD-40? I don't have experience with using it on plastics just like I don't put *any* petroleum products on plastics unless they say it is safe (which the makers of WD-40 say their product is not safe for). Only an idiot would go against the recommendations of the product manufacturer.

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Rick

As far as I udnerstand it wd40 is pretty close to kerosine.

** FFS read what I what I actually wrote !!!

** That is an absolute, damn LIE !!!! You have NOT used WD40 on switches,connectors and the like so you DO NOT KNOW what you are talking about.!!

So shut the hell up.

.... Phil

Off your meds today Phil?

--

Rick

** WD40 contains no kerosine, CFCs, silicone, carcinogens or nuclear weapons.

The name is WD40 not WMD40.

.... Phil

It's mostly naphtha (white gas, lighter fluid, or Coleman camp fuel), which is not the same as kerosene (diesel fuel). However, the other ingredients are rather interesting. Wired magazine did a gas chromatography analysis which produced some oddities:

One of the minor ingredients might be BTA (benzotriazole) which coats metals with a very thin protective coating (that unfortunately is water soluble): I'm not sure I believe the author, but it is a probable ingredient.

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

OBones wrote in news:54038439$0$2396$ snipped-for-privacy@news.free.fr:

Well once more, to return to the original problem I advise the following steps (some mentioned by others already):

- Check the solder joints. Vibrations due to turning the knob may crack the solderjoints over time. If in any doubt, resolder them. If not, resolder them too.

- Use WD40 to solve oxide and dirt. As long as I use it, I never found it damaging my materials but even if it does, what do you have to loose? Do not use too much however. If the component is soaked, any more will do no good. Remove the residue by a cleaning tissue as it will attrack dirt and dust. Be aware that the WD40 can do a great job but it will not replace worn out material or repair lamed contact springs.

- Look for a replacement. Apparently you have no luck so far and as the component does not show any sign or character it will not be easy. Try to find the repair manual (if it exist). Maybe the manufacturer can provide some information (if he wants to). If a repair chanal exists, most likely they will replace the whole board which will be expensive. As you did not mention the brand and type of the oven, I cannot say more.

- Analyse the existing encoder and look for a similar type. To me it seems to be a simple mechanical encoder with two switches inside. It cannot be difficult to find out the number of clicks or pulses per rotation. That will be enough to find a part with the same function but it can become quite a job to fit it in the existing environment.

petrus bitbyter

If he is, he is still making much more sense than you. Having your "friends" tell you horror stories about it does not give you first-hand experience. Test it yourself rather than relying on hearsay from your "buddies".

There is a FAQ collection at

(the manufacturer's site).

One FAQ is "What surfaces or materials are OK to use WD-40(tm) Multi-Use Product on?"

The answer is:

"WD-40(tm) Multi-Use Product can be used on just about everything. It is safe to use on metal, rubber, wood, and plastic. It can also be applied to painted metal surfaces without harming the paint. Polycarbonate and clear polystyrene plastic are among the few surfaces on which to avoid using a petroleum-based product like WD-40(tm) Multi-Use Product."

So, as I read it, WD-40 is safe for use on *most* plastics... but there are certain plastics for which the manufacturer says that WD-40 is *not* appropriate for use.

So, I believe that the original statement is correct - it's certainly not an "absolute, damned lie".

What the manufacturer says, seems to be quite consistent with a data sheet I find on polycarbonate plastic... polycarbonate is listed as having either "not resistant" or "limited resistance" to various petroleum fractions such as naptha, kerosene, and white spirit. The lighter petroleum fractions seem to be the ones for which polycarbonate is listed as being "not resistant".

I wouldn't personally use WD-40 on switches and connectors unless I was certain that these switch and connector bodies didn't contain polycarbonate. Most do not, I imagine... but it's hard to predict just which plastics a manufacturer might choose to use.

Yeah, right. There are people I know and trust. I don't need to conduct field experiments when the manufacturer also cautions against using the product on certain types of plastics.

BTW, since when is "So shut the hell up." a winning argument in any discussion?

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Rick

I'll try that first as another person also suggested it. And looking closely at contact 3 definitely shows some solder issue.

It's a Samsung MC187DN for which I was able to find a complete board replacement for about 90? which is way too expensive. As to the repair manual, I could only "find" it on scam looking websites. I'll try to contact Samsung but I doubt they will answer...

Yes, fitting it in the environment would be tricky as the shaft is hollow so that a push button sits in the middle. And that push button is the "Start" button...

Thanks for your answers.

You are definitely right, I did not notice it until I had a closer look at the photographs. I'll try to resolder that.

Stoddard Solvent is the same as naphtha. According to this web page: it's also the same as white spirit(UK) or mineral spirits(US), mineral turpentine, turpentine substitute, petroleum spirits, solvent naphtha (petroleum), and varsol.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

** And when you ACTUALLY try it with them, there is NO harm done at all.

Tens of thousands of service technicians have been using use WD40 and the MANY similar naptha/oil based contact cleaner/lubricants on the market for decades.

A simple and crucial fact you and the "rickman" fool are blissfully ignorant of.

** You are misreading what was posted.

The "rickman" fool's posts implied the WD40 attacked all plastics.

Funny how he spells his name with a silent "p".

.... Phil

** That is your stupid & WRONG interpretation.

** Utter nonsense.

Piss off fool.

.... Phil

** Why were you told to "shut the hell up" - eh ?

Was it because you presented NO CASE AT ALL and were bullshititng wildly ??

Just like you ALWAYS do.

FYI:

You are nothing but a mentally defective, pig ignorant, evil troll.

You handle should be changed to "prickman" as a warning to others.

.... Phil

You are such a trip. I wonder what you are like in person.

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Rick