Adding Oil - Can't mix brands??

I rarely buy brand name oil. There's a good motor factor near me that stocks decent 'small name' brand oil that's widely used by the trade for a fraction of the price. Means you can buy semi-synthetic for the price of brand name dino oil.

Europeans are forever baffled by US oil change intervals like 3000 mi too !

Graham

There certainly can be problems with mixing oils, but there should not be from most normal examples of the same viscosity, and 'type'. In the past, there was one particular famous brand of oil, that had a different colour from any other type, and if this was mixed with certain other brands, a sort of 'coagulation' would take place. It did lead to some engine failures at the time. Some of the very 'hi tech' oils (synthetics), also won't mix, but these generally also have very different viscosities. If you stick to the same SAE numbers and equally importantly the same API classification grades, most oils should mix fine.

Best Wishes

Yeah, but several people reassured that these days, they're all pretty much interchangeable, just don't mix weights. So I got a couple of quarts of 10-40, which is as close as I could find to what I think is already in there.

Also, I have a voltmeter on my dash and it was reading a little low, and, like, when I used the turn signal, the radio would get a little quieter. Surprisingly, one cell in my DieHard took about a teaspoon of water, and now I've got a good solid

13.5V. :-)

I also filled up, and found that I'm getting better than 15 MPG around town - wasn't there a thread about gas mileage somewhere?

Thanks! Rich

Yikes! I obviously misremembered the airplane's designator - this isn't the one I worked on at all.

Here it is: EB-57 "Canberra". My mistake - but, well, I was in the Air ^ Force, and it was some time ago. (I was but a lad...)

The ones I worked on were painted in camouflage, and instead of bombs in the bomb-bay, it had a modified bomb-bay door with jamming transmitters mounted on it and antennas sticking out the bottom.

Thanks! Rich

Quite right. Don't EVER put pure D2O or T2O into your battery. Especially T2O; it's far too costly.

OTOH, most brands of H2O mix quite well.

--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
If everything has been designed, a god designed evolution by natural selection.
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

Some brands of H2O are rather costly as well. Some are more expensive than beer, or even gasoline!

--
  Keith

I was wondering about that. The EB47 was just a B47 with some electronics doodads, mostly used by the Navy, IIRC.

A friend was a crew chief for the RB57 that's now in the USAF museum at Wright Patterson (it's restored to its Vermont Air Guard clothes as it was when he worked on it). He also did some baby sitting for "specials", during the Cuban Missle Crisis, that officially didn't exist. Shhh!

--
  Keith

How about HDO? HTO? DTO?

But its good to use distilled water for battery and cooling system.

greg

What do you have anyway?

Thats scary.

I wish!

greg

I read in sci.electronics.design that Richard Henry wrote (in ) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix brands??', on Tue, 11 Oct 2005:

These hybrids have NO place in a high-fidelity battery.

--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
If everything has been designed, a god designed evolution by natural selection.
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

snipped-for-privacy@example.net

a

the

decent

price.

So are Americans. I use synthetic and shoot for anywhere from

8,000-12,000 mi depending on when it's convenient for me. 3,000 mi is nonsense from several decades ago and has no relevance to today's engines or oils.

Pete C.

Somewhere or other I read that distilled is not recommended for the cooling system. Something about it being more corrosive and the regular "drinking water" being recommended instead if your tap water is not useable i.e. hard water.

Pete C.

Yes, but the distilled brand is free. I throw away a couple of gallons of it every day from June to November.

--
  Keith

I read in sci.electronics.design that Pete C. wrote (in ) about 'Adding Oil - Can't mix brands??', on Tue, 11 Oct 2005:

Yes, distilled water will totally wreck an aluminium engine, given time, and there may be Al parts in there that you don't know about. If the book says you must use a corrosion-inhibited coolant, IT MEANS IT!

--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
If everything has been designed, a god designed evolution by natural selection.
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk

The only problem (and the reason you heard that claim?) might be switching to synthetic oil after driving tens of thousands of miles on regular oil. Gummed-up oil seals might become "too clean" and lose their band-aid effect. I vary synthetic brands since they are all rated as compatible with the same engine materials.

Waters

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1986 Pontiac Fiero with the V6. (I'd have to look up the CID.)

Why is this?

Thanks, Rich

Amen, Quaker State and Penzoil have contributed to many an engine's short life.

Distilled water mixed with a proper antifreeze (containing corrosion inhibitors) isn't going to corrode anything any faster than tap water, bottled spring water, mud, Perrier or any other DHMO-based liquid. It will in fact leave behind less residues, like lime from tap water.

--
        If John McCain gets the 2008 Republican Presidential nomination,
           my vote for President will be a write-in for Jiang Zemin.