115 V car outlets

Yep. Those are the components I found in the unit I reverse engineered. I imagine they wimped out a bit by creating somewhat less than the RMS-ideal value of 170V. I didn't measure the under-operation voltage. As you can see, without any snubbers, output filters, etc., this was a minimalist design. I didn't trace their circuitry for driving the half-bridge MOSFETs, but the KSP42 = MPSA42 TO-92 transistors are a clue. Wimp city.

--
 Thanks, 
    - Win
Reply to
Winfield Hill
Loading thread data ...

Or just get a properly made inverter for $20-$30 and plug it into the

12V outlet. I have run a Dell notebook from a little one I bought (got a bunch) for $9.95.

I **really** don't like the idea of trying to run a 19V notebook from the 12V directly (barring an extreme emergency- Skype to call for an ambulance or soemthing)- transients could kill the notebook, and low "brownout" input voltage means the buck converters are going to be dissipating a lot more power (and it gets hot in cars by times).

--
Best regards,  
Spehro Pefhany 
Amazon link for AoE 3rd Edition:            http://tinyurl.com/ntrpwu8 
Microchip link for 2015 Masters in Phoenix: http://tinyurl.com/l7g2k48
Reply to
Spehro Pefhany

transients /will/ kill it.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

BTW, I did carefully check that my drawing matches their wiring WRT the receptacle Ground. Note that they have one side of the AC line = ground and the other at +HV, then the other side is connected to ground and the original line to +HV. This was a decision they made, and it's not at all like our usual AC wiring, where the Hot line swings from +HV to -HV, with respect to Neutral, which ideally is quietly sitting at ground. Maybe they made this decision to save components in the driver and fault circuitry, or maybe in the HV feedback circuit.

Ahem, I have not been brave enough to run any of my electronics devices from this inverter. But it is a marvel of simplicity and low-cost components.

--
 Thanks, 
    - Win
Reply to
Winfield Hill

But it's safer than plugging a $600 phone into a $1 car USB adapter.

Reply to
Tom Del Rosso

What if you just move that 1 ohm resistor to go between ground and neutral?

Reply to
Tom Del Rosso

ship are also wired like that and they have a meter to show if there is any leakage from either side to ground

I guess it also means you won't have any DC that could promote corrosion

-Lasse

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

You would think. My laptops won't work with a 150 watt inverter which said 125 watts *inside* the package. If your laptop draws 95 watts you need a lot from from the inverter because of the inefficiencies. They all seem to play games with the specs much like the rated power output of amplifiers.

--

Rick
Reply to
rickman

Or just make sure the battery is topped off by leaving it plugged in for a while without powering up the computer.

--

Rick
Reply to
rickman

some cars are smart enough to have ignition switched outlets and/or low voltage cut outs

-Lasse

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

Or if it's an electric hybrid it might start the gasoline engine automatically and murder you with CO.

--
Best regards,  
Spehro Pefhany 
Amazon link for AoE 3rd Edition:            http://tinyurl.com/ntrpwu8 
Microchip link for 2015 Masters in Phoenix: http://tinyurl.com/l7g2k48
Reply to
Spehro Pefhany

Den mandag den 25. maj 2015 kl. 20.41.18 UTC+2 skrev Spehro Pefhany:

you don't want to run a car in a closed garage but modern cars with catalytic converters make very little CO

-Lasse

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

I have a cheap "75 W" inverter that appears to not do anything with the

120 V receptacle ground. There's a hole for the prong on the plug to fit into, if present, but no connection to anything. In the past I took apart another 300 W -ish inverter that also didn't do anything with the 120 V receptacle ground. I feel like it should at least go to the vehicle chassis ground, but maybe there's some fault scenario that makes that a bad idea.

I ran the external power brick for an old Toshiba laptop from a 216 V DC battery stack once, just to see what would happen. It appeared to work, at least for several minutes, and seemed to have lower ripple on the low-voltage DC output. I *did* chicken out and use a tail light bulb for the load, rather than the laptop.

Matt Roberds

Reply to
mroberds

here the majority of outlets don't have ground

if the first thing inside is a rectifier it should work just fine on DC

-Lasse

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

I've never seen UVLOs on accessory outlets but some are switched. They're usually labled ""Acc" or "+12V" instead of "Cigar". I had both, almost next to each other, on my Ford Ranger.

--Keith

Reply to
krw

I meant to add that the "ACC" outlets tend to be fused much lower (to take the stress off the ignition switch).

Reply to
krw

Den tirsdag den 26. maj 2015 kl. 00.11.00 UTC+2 skrev krw:

I'd expect them to be via a relay

-Lasse

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

I wouldn't. Relays cost real money and same problem esists with a relay.

Reply to
krw

Den tirsdag den 26. maj 2015 kl. 01.30.50 UTC+2 skrev krw:

afaict recent toyotas have an ACC relay powering the outlets each fused for 15A

-Lasse

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

Cig lighters can draw 10 or more amps. They are often on a 15 or 20 amp fuse. This much current is not typically switched through the key switch as it would require it's own contacts. Instead multiple relays are used for a variety of circuits preserving the contacts in the key switch.

--

Rick
Reply to
rickman

ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.