conformal coating

ROB L wrote in news:a14958c7-7eb7-4786-a04f- snipped-for-privacy@c36g2000yqn.googlegroups.com:

I mentioned acrylic coatings before, but maybe that's no good, but yacht varnish is. It's made to resist salt water so it should be seriously considered. Some has a harder coat, mainly polyurethane, as oposed to spar varnish which has more oil in it, which is softer but lasts longer in variable weather if removed from rough physical stresses. Standard polyurethane is probably best on a PCB. If you thin it, capiliary action will draw it into wire strands and crevices. Just heat the assembly to around 50°C first if possible, or at least 20C higher than ambient on a dry day if not, then apply the stuff. For best chance of reliability, do two coats, one thin one for penetration, then dry for 6 hours before a heavier coat for conforming to edges and tight curves. And try to find one with UV flourescence if you can, so you can inspect for flaws. Shouldn't be difficult, I just tested some Ronseal varnish, it glows strongly cyan in a

405nm laser beam.
Reply to
Lostgallifreyan
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No. It is a brand name for a product.

Reply to
Archimedes' Lever

So will a nice vacuum chamber.

Reply to
Archimedes' Lever

I think you have answered your own question.

With 163,000 google hits to wade through and knowing how reliable Google information often is why are you averse to someone enquiring of a knowledgable / experienced person.?

Failing to learn and adapt from the knowledge and experience of others is how the cowboys operate.

keep your spurs clean

Reply to
ROB L

So, did you bother to do the search, or did you just say "screw it!" and come back merely to whine and snivel about the difficulty of the assignment?

Everybody has a favorite conformal coating - I have a couple, depending on the application. What are your parameters? How about a spec of some kind? Are you willing to participate in your own research?

Thanks, Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

Rich Grise wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@example.net:

He hasn't acknowledged, let alone thanked, those who have participated in it for him, so don't hold out much hope. Anyway, I think he's not acting like the kind of professional who REALLY throws out 100,000 plus of anything. And even if he is, if he throws his head up and sneers at my suggestion of yacht varnish, he's a fool. Even if that's not the end of his search, it's a damn good start, considering it's made to satisfy EXACTLY the demands he's expressed so far.

Reply to
Lostgallifreyan

It is NOT "google information" you retarded, know nothing piece of shit.

The hits are real web pages that have NOTHING to do with google. Google is merely the search engine.

Your IQ was already below 50, but this post you made here just dropped it by a minimum of ten more points.

Reply to
FatBytestard

Your failure to understand just what a google search is, is indicative that your logic is severely flawed, not to mention the fact that you have also obviously been biased by the peer group you 'hang with'.

In other words, you're a gossip retard.

Reply to
FatBytestard

I used flowable silicon from RS apply on the pcb, it work !. But still finding a way or liquid to dilute the silicon .

Reply to
mowhoong

Probably one of those silver platter asswipes that gets a job where he gets to stand around doing next to nothing all day, and calls himself participatory.

Real knowledge escapes these dolts, even AFTER they have "experienced" solutions.

The only solution I want to experience right now is a nice Bass Ale... or two. Currently one of the few good things to emerge from across the pond.

Reply to
FatBytestard

Many conformal coating are "varnish" based, as are transformer impregnation media.

He is lost if he scoffed at your suggestion. But we all did see that coming.

Reply to
Archimedes' Lever

Archimedes' Lever wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Yep, that's the thing that makes me think of varnish, specifically. The first time I smelled a hot transformer, I realised that the choice of materials really is not that sophisticated... Only caveat I have regarding yacht varnish is that even the 'clear' varieties usually have some cooked oil component that colours them and probably makes them less than ideal for PCB covers. So a water-clear polyurethane is probably the way to go, better than acrylic as I learned last night that it isn't so good with long-term water resistance. I forget what site I read, but it's a reasonable finding, as polyurethane is less brittle, less likely to end up with fine flaws, and is more resistant to scratching. If it has a UV filter substance, it probably absorbs and re-emits as fluorescense, so obviously helps both inspection and long term resistance to UV. I doubt either acrylic or polyurethane will react with salt water.

Anyway, acrylic is standard, and given that a coating might easily outlast the board's working life, the choice is easy enough not to agonise over. Just use whatever people have used for decades, if it was crap the industry would have rejected it by now.

Reply to
Lostgallifreyan

Actually, it is. It has a very high temperature capacity, which many polymer based coatings do not necessarily have.

Reply to
Archimedes' Lever

Precisely. That was my original point to all those that claimed that sea water would breach it.

If HV supply makers use it, you can count on it sealing just about anything up. Damn near to hermetic proportions.

Reply to
Archimedes' Lever

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