Barrel connectors

Hi,

They're everywhere!

And, often CRAP!

Any guidelines on selection criteria? Any worries about failure modes?

Do the "inverse" variety (now popular on laptops, LCD's, etc.) offer any special advantages over the traditional style?

Thx, --don

Reply to
Don Y
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Do you mean coaxial power plugs, or RF connectors with females on both sides?

If you are building custom gear and you meant a DC coaxial connector, use a Cannon XLR connector for power. There are 4 pin connectors if you want to be official. Use a 3 pin if you are the only person using the gear. The 4 pin version is to avoid people not knowing what they are doing plugging in the wrong gear.

Four pin XLR is used in ENG, but then it also found its way into some custom audio.

Reply to
miso

I have used the Neutrik XLR range (5 and 6 pin) for some industrial control applications. Excellent connector for localised quick connect-disconnect and very robust in all the formats.

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Reply to
Paul E Bennett

"miso"

** FOAD you STINKING NUT CASE TROLL

Never post here again.

Or this NG will be sabotaged.

Reply to
Phil Allison

Digikey has these at $20 a pair ( one male/one female ) !!!!!

Just for power ?!?!

Reply to
hamilton

power plugs. sorry, i thought that would have been obvious from my derogatory references! :>

Huh??? like the sort used on microphones?

WAY too big and far heavier than needed.

Thknk of the sorts of places you see "barrel connectors" and imagine one of yours in that same application...

>
Reply to
Don Y

power plugs. sorry, i thought that would have been obvious from my derogatory references! :>

Huh??? like the sort used on microphones?

WAY too big and far heavier than needed.

Thknk of the sorts of places you see "barrel connectors" and imagine one of yours in that same application...

>
Reply to
Don Y

May be *excellent* for power -- ignoring other considerations! :(

But, you see barrel connectors *everywhere*. No doubt because they are small, inexpensive and "adequate" (even if only barely so).

Ignoring the plethora of different ID/OD combinations (along with polarity), my question is why a particular "style" is used (or avoided).

E.g., obviously a smaller body is used in cases where there is less available room. Larger ID for higher current capacities? Or, just to make "yours" different that "the next guy's"?

Longer barrels often to overcome "too much plastic" in the fabrication of the employing device's case (so, the mate is "too far recessed").

But, why the appearance of these "inverse" variants? Is there a mechanical advantage? Electrical? Or, just more variety for the sake of variety??

Reply to
Don Y

On 11/15/2013 1:40 PM, Don Y wrote: Grrr... I'm seeing lots of duplicate posts (of mine). I suspect my server is having issues :< Sorry!

Reply to
Don Y

In *any* quantity, the cable mounted ends should be around $6. The panel or board mounted connectors are cheaper. DigiKey charges big money for one of anything, which is quite reasonable.

Why not? It's a great connector. It's too bad there aren't more configurations.

Reply to
krw

"Don Y"

** The term "barrel connector" must be an Americanism - cos I have never heard it before.

It alludes to resemblance of the male connector to a gun barrel - right ?

How pathetic.

... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

"Barrel connector" historically refers to M-M or F-F RF coax connectors. Applying it to coaxial power connectors is a perfectly ordinary bit of technical illiteracy of the sort we all know and love, probably coming from some ESL type in the Far East.

IOW you made that up. Howzabout going back on your meds so you can talk about audio and stuff coherently?

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

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Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 

160 North State Road #203 
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+1 845 480 2058 

hobbs at electrooptical dot net 
http://electrooptical.net
Reply to
Phil Hobbs

"Phil Hobbs is insanely autistic "

** Does it - news to me.
** Has probably got nothing to do with the above at all.
** You just made that up.
** No, you made shit up.

I asked a simple question.

BTW:

Fuck off - you vile, autistic pile of septic shit.

.... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

Enjoy!

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs 
Principal Consultant 
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC 
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 

160 North State Road #203 
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 USA 
+1 845 480 2058 

hobbs at electrooptical dot net 
http://electrooptical.net
Reply to
Phil Hobbs

Nahh. Whiskey barrel.

But was fun to drain that barrel.

Not that we can remember the details.

Joe Gwinn

Reply to
Joe Gwinn

"Joe Gwinn"

**See:

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Nahh.

... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

I know Phil, and he's not.

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John Larkin Highland Technology Inc

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jlarkin at highlandtechnology dot com

Precision electronic instrumentation Picosecond-resolution Digital Delay and Pulse generators Custom timing and laser controllers Photonics and fiberoptic TTL data links VME analog, thermocouple, LVDT, synchro, tachometer Multichannel arbitrary waveform generators

Reply to
John Larkin

"John Larkin" "Phil Allison"

** No you don't.

** Impossible for someone as f***ed in the head as you to even tell.

Cos the exact same comment applies 100% to you.

Asshole.

.... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

Sturgeons law?

You mean like current limits and mating cycle counts?

The cable seems to die first in my experience.

AFAICT three contacts.

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Reply to
Jasen Betts

There is a Japanese standard for these, that Sony and Nintendo equipment seems to follow.

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The diameter goes up with voltage. The standard doesn't seem to require it, but it seems popular for the defined voltage to not be an even number. The insulator at the tips of these plugs is usually yellow, at least on Sony and Nintendo gear.

For "regular" plugs, the most common OD is probably 5.5 mm, with either a 2.1 mm or 2.5 mm ID. The voltage and current can be anything at all, up to maybe 50 W, +/- 50 W.

If you want your customers to be able to improvise a supply, pick a common size. If you want to sell them power supplies and/or cause them to go to the competition, pick a weird size.

I don't know what brands are good or bad, but I'd probably look for a "name brand" like Switchcraft or Hirose first, and then look for something cheaper when the bean counters scream.

A lot of smaller devices seem to have standardized on USB connectors, which are almost always good for 5 V, 0.5 A; higher currents are available but you can't always count on this. The main advantage is that you can be pretty sure that the voltage will be between 5.0 and

5.5 V, and that the polarity will be right.

I've actually had more failures of the wire right behind the plug than I have had of the plugs or the jacks. I would tend to trust a through- hole jack more than a surface mount one, especially if the plug will be disconnected and reconnected often.

These are more of a design thing, but: one "failure mode" might be that if the plug even remotely sort of fits, people will try to cram it into the socket, so you might get all kinds of unexpected voltages coming in. A fuse with a "backwards" diode after it guards against wrong polarity; guarding against too-high voltage is a little trickier. If you can stand the voltage drop, board space, and budget, put in a bridge rectifier and a capacitor, so the user can use any AC or DC power supply of some minimum voltage.

Also, some of the jacks have switches that open or close on plug insertion. Some devices use these to switch between internal or external power. Some users, though, might prefer to leave the plug connected all the time, and remove the AC power from the power supply instead; your device might not be able to rely on the switch contact in the jack.

Are you talking about the ones that have a pin inside the barrel? As far as I know, this is to offer an extra "data" channel to the power supply; these are really 3-circuit connectors. The outside surface of the barrel is one side of the power supply (usually negative), the inside surface of the barrel is the other (usually positive), and the pin is "data". The "data" can be as simple as a resistor to one side of the power supply, which the connected device measures and interprets, or as complex as a serial bus to a microcontroller or ROM inside the power supply.

The "data" can be used for good or for evil. A good use is that the cheap 20 volt 3 amp supply has (say) a 1K resistor to ground, and the more expensive 20 volt 5 amp supply has (say) a 2K resistor to ground. The connected device has an A/D that tells it what resistor is there, and then it can adjust its internal switching power supply appropriately to only draw as much current as the external supply is capable of. (Laptops often do this; they *have* to power the CPU and then the battery gets whatever is "left over".) An evil use is to require the power supply to authenticate to the connected device, in order to sell power supplies at inflated prices^W^W^W^W^W^Wprotect the consumer.

Matt Roberds

Reply to
mroberds

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