Ambient backlighting with HyperHDR and two RP2040 boards

Oct 26, 2026 Last reply: 1 day ago 4 Replies
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Most ambient lighting builds I come across lean on a camera pointed at the screen or a single controller doing everything. This one takes a different route: an HDMI splitter taps the feed on its way up to the TV, and a capture card hands it to a gaming PC running HyperHDR. The maker picked that method after reading it gives the fastest response time, and on a screen this size that seems like a sound bet.



Putting it together took two Adafruit boards. An RP2040 Scorpio drives the strips behind the 86-inch panel, while an ItsyBitsy RP2040 handles a second strip behind the cabinet below. Both boards talk to the PC over USB, and the whole system draws from a standalone 5V 40A supply. The two-controller split was not the first choice; the maker wanted both strips on the Scorpio, but HyperHDR could not support two separate instances without two controllers.



In motion, the strips mirror the on-screen colors and movement in real time and cast localized light onto the wall behind the set. Blackbar detection is kept switched on for TV shows, which I think is a setting plenty of people forget to tune at all.



There are open edges, to be fair. Dark content is tricky at the top bar, since the lack of a true black background makes dark colors hard to separate, and gray or brown scenes come out a dull white. The maker also finds the brightness too dim by day and treats the setup as more of a night-time thing. A threshold setting floated in the discussion has not been found or tried yet, and two nights of tuning ended with a good-enough verdict.


Running two boards where one would ideally do strikes me as a pragmatic trade. The maker wanted a single Scorpio, and HyperHDR would not handle two instances on one controller. The cost is a second board and an extra USB run, but in exchange each strip gets a dedicated driver. For a set this size I think that split is a sensible compromise.

I am curious about the signal path. Does the capture card sit between the source and the TV, with the PC reading a copy of the same feed, or is the hookup arranged some other way?

An HDMI splitter and capture card grab the signal on its way up to the TV. From there the capture card connects by USB to the gaming PC, where HyperHDR processes the video before sending instructions to the Adafruit boards over USB.

Hunting down that threshold setting, whether it turns out to be called minimum light or minimum darkness, would be my first step, since the top bar picking up color in dark scenes looks like the most visible flaw. Turning the backlighting down a notch could help too. Another path worth testing is adjusting the border size HyperHDR uses and switching off black bar detection for a while, at least outside TV shows.

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