My son's PS5 quit sending a picture to the TV a few weeks back, and the HDMI port looked pretty chewed up, so I figured I'd have a go at swapping it myself. Ordered a replacement online, got the old one off with my little pencil iron, cleaned up the mess as best I could, and soldered the new one in place. Now the console powers on, fan spins, light comes on, but the TV still says no signal. The thing bugging me is that some of the pins on the back row look lumpy under a magnifying glass, like the solder bunched up between two of them instead of sitting neat and seprate. I also scraped away some of the green coating near the port while picking at the old one, so there's shiny copper showing in a couple of spots now. Would those bunched-up joints actually kill the picture, or am I chasing the wrong thing here? And did scratching that coating off cause any real harm? I did unplug it and let it sit for a good while before opening it up, so hopefully I haven't fried anything else in there.
PS5 shows no signal after I replaced the HDMI port myself - what did I mess up?
Nov 05, 2026
Last reply: 10 hours ago
4 Replies
First reply
Those lumpy joints you mentioned are definitely a problem, and they coud easily be why you're not getting a signal. When solder doesn't flow correctly around the pins, it ussually means there's poor wetting or that the joint is bridging between two contacts. On a high-speed…
Read the full replyThose lumpy joints you mentioned are definitely a problem, and they coud easily be why you're not getting a signal. When solder doesn't flow correctly around the pins, it ussually means there's poor wetting or that the joint is bridging between two contacts. On a high-speed connection like HDMI, that sort of poor connection acts like a massive bottleneck, or worse, a complete short that prevents data from getting through, even if the power light is still on. As for scratching the green coating, that's also not good. That green layer isn't just paint; it's a protective solder mask and a corrosion barrier. Once you expose the shiny copper underneath, especially in an environment like this where dust and humidity are present, oxidation starts almost immediately. That can create an incredibly high resistance, or even a microscopic short, which will kill the signal just like a bad joint would. If you're serious about fixing this yourself, the best bet is to carefully desolder the entire replacement port. You need to get rid of all that suspect work. Then, clean the pads on the console's board using isopropyl alcohol and some flux remover to get them completely clean. Reinstall the new port and ensure that the solder is properly drawn to every single pad and pin without any bridges. Every single connection needs to look neat and distinct once it's cooled. It's worth noting that if the HDMI port itself is fine, sometimes the signal path inside the console is what fails, maybe somethig at the APU connection. But starting with the physical port is the right troubleshooting step since that's what you had to work on.
I totally agree with the detailed advice given earlier about the exposed copper and the lumpy solder joints. That oxidation on a small contact is a guaranteed failure point. I've run into this exact issue when working on smaller components, and what helps is using a magnifying glass and a small probe to get the pad clean before you even try to solder it back on. Specifically, I always use flux during the desoldering process to make sure the remaining residue isn't giving you high resistance on the copper.
You know, before you totally gut the board, you might wanna check the actual HDMI controller. Sometimes when you're applying that heat, you don't just kill the solder joints, you heat up the chip right behind the port. That's a much bigger issue than a bad connection. You're risking thermal damage to the component itself. It's always nerve-wracking when you're trying to be precise with a pencil iron. Good luck!
Update: got it working. Went back in with fresh solder and redid that row, turned out two pins were indeed bridged like you all figured. Cleaned the bridges up, reheated everythign till it flowed nice, and the picture came right back on the TV. Also kept the iron moving quick on account of that warning about cooking the chip behind the port. Scratched copper spots seem fine too, picture has stayed solid all week.
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