What's .001 uufd ?

Yup, the ones of us who lived! ;)

mica capacitor, most probably silver mica. These are highly stable small value caps. (The much earlier non-silvered ones were not so stable.)

You shouldnt need a tube tester, although theyre a nice luxury. A good place to start when you dont know where to begin is to measure the anode voltages on all the valves. A tv is a series of stages, each containing 1 or sometimes more valve sections, and in each case faults in the psu, anode or grid circuits will generally show up in abnormal anode readings. General tube data will show you whether a tube can run at the v found, and that v should be lower than the psu line suppying it, IOW the tube should be conducting, not off or saturated.

Loud 50/100Hz from the LS can sometimes result from a short or a valve turned hard on, either of which can fry things fairly quickly, so dont leave it on like that for a minute or more until you know whats happening.

I wouldnt assume that. Even if it is, very minor leakage is not a reason to replace it. Corrosion on historic parts is part of the deal, and not usually cause for replacement. Give it a clean with a cotton bud is a good idea.

Beware when handling old caps, some used PCBs (poly chlorinated biphenyls iirc) which is toxic stuff, and some can leak mechanically. You dont want any of that on your skin.

1. You cant.
2. You've not given any reason that it would need replacing
3. Replacing parts of antique equipment without a valid reason is not a smart idea.
4. Those are high voltage ratings, especially considering that it was common practice to run supply lytics at (and sometimes above) their V ratings. IOW this thing is likely to be running some fairly evil voltages round the set. Handle with much care.

if you can get the service info for the tv model or crt type you can meter the crt pins, then you should have some idea what's causing the raster blackout. Extremely low emission causing a blank (black) screen is always a possibility on these old sets, which contrary to popular belief is very much fixable.

BTW there were a few pink screen sets around, easier on the eyes than white.

Yeah, thats a very old design. How historic is this set? Wound field speakers were used mostly in the 1930s (1930s TVs are rare prized collectors items). They were used to give greater mag field strength than the PM designs of the day. This allowed large gaps to be used, higher power to be handled and ensured they handled bass and volume without fouling. Usually the field wind would be used as the smoothing inductor in the psu section. But this is a typical 1930s circuit design feature.

IME this is very likely.

A word of warning about historic TVs: the tube faces are thin walled and rim-band-less. This makes them fragile and somewhat bomb-like. DO NOT piss about with the tube or apply forces to it, treat it with care, and be very careful if ever the protective glass screen has to be removed.

Also, just in case this is a very early set, beware of the EHT. 1930s sets normally used a mains transformer for EHT, which could deliver serious shocks and start fires.

There is an assortment of safety issues with old tvs, really you should be upto speed on them before working on it.

To use it, you may run into 2 issues:

1. Transmission frequencies have changed in many countries, so you may need to use an external tuner (eg a video recorder) and feed baseband into the set. This isnt hard but its not elementary either.
2. Line speed has also changed in most countries, and this is a bigger issue, though not insurmountable.

NT

Marking standards were all over the map in the early days. MFD would have been MicroFarads, but by todays standards a capital "M" would indicate MegaFarads, which is an unlikely size...

MMF or MMFD usually indicated MicroMicroFarads, which today we call PicoFarads. I do not recall having seen uufd, but by description it is almost certainly .001 MicroFarads (1000 PicoFarads), probably silver mica and they don't usually go bad unless badly abused.

The "dominoes" were an early molded packaging scheme that isn't used anymore. Usually red or brown and the dots color code for value.

Many of these multi-section electrolytics were made to order, and almost no one does things this way anymore. Try Antique Electronics Supply for some similar generic parts. There used to be a couple companies that would repack the original cans for a hefty fee. If you just want to get it to play, you can figure a way to mount three individual caps of similar value.

Some early makers used an electromagnet (the extra coil), which may also do double duty as a supply filter inductor, and when the filter caps get bad they hum quite a bit. Almost everyone eventually settled on the permanent magnet setup to simplify wiring, replacement, etc.