TV Picture: What Does "Calibration" Mean???

Here are my settings. It gives me a number and a point on a scale, I'm estimating percentages.

Backlight, about 48% contrast, about 75% brightness, 50% color, 42% tint 0 sharpness 0 color warm (dunno why two colors) Noise reduction On light sensor On Black Stretch Off Dynamic contrast Off

Tim R wrote: "Backlight, about 48% contrast, about 75% brightness, 50% color, 42% tint 0 sharpness 0 color warm (dunno why two colors) Noise reduction On light sensor On Black Stretch Off Dynamic contrast Off "

Seem reasonable. I'd still turn off noise reduction and the light sensor.

Run up one of the controls all the way to the right: That will determine your scale. On my Samsung LED, the scale is 0-100, with 50 as midpoint. On my "bedroom" tube Toshiba, scale is 0-64, with 32 as midpoint.

Anywho, the cause of your "washed out" image is (1) Being so used to the exaggerated settings of Vivid or dynamic. and (2) - nudge that Contrast up a little higher - 85% or so. I keep mine at

90/100.

How many color temp. options does your set have - just TWO? Warm and ....? There should be at least three on any reputable/recognizable brand name TV.

My backlight(scale 0-20) by the way is set by me at 7. I had to bump up brightness to 55 so as to not lose detail in darker parts of the image, IE: the texture of a dark suit jacket, etc.

And you are probably white clipping.

I am not from Alaska, but I do own several Atwater Kent radios made nearby. Otherwise, I do not get the reference?

ame. Amps, tuners, whatever, consider them good within 3 dB. And people are afraid to use tone controls ? Where is that in the Bible ? Where is that i n the Constitution ?

Some do, some are better than that. Most of mine are in the "better" catego ry. Most (not all) speakers that are in the better category are also power pigs. All of mine are in that category - which leads to having to have rel atively high-wattage amps based on speaker type, expected volume and room s ize. My least powerful amp is a 12-watt EL84 based homebrew, my most is 225 watt solid-state beast.

t is supposed to do. Or all the way down. It was endowed by its creator wit h that ability. It is your free will to use it or abuse it. Like a gun, wel l at least as far as some woofers are concerned but they are just paranoid. ..

Have you ever looked at a 'full/min.' curve on a typical amp tone control? One runs out of words past "ugly". Not even the first cousin of the input s ignal.

speakers used to have a small woofer and like an 8 or 10 inch passive radi ator which I replaced with a four ohm woofer.

On Bose - there is a very accurate descriptive phrase: No highs? No lows? M ust be Bose. Of all the "popular" and/or mass-market "Name Brand" speakers out there, Bose were and are perhaps the worst of the lot. Their singular v irtue was that they sounded just as wretched anywhere in the room due to th at equalization. Which Bose managed to turn into a selling point. But, if t hat is your 'reference' speaker, much of what you have to write is justifie d, and heroic use of equalization is probably necessary. Generally not so m uch with decent speakers and sufficient power to drive them.

ASIDE: one day, I will fasten upon a set of Klipschorns - and retest my the ories using fixed-location highly efficient speakers. Until then, I am quit e happy with what I have, have no fears, constitutional, biblical or otherw ise using equalization, bass, midrange or treble controls but just not havi ng much of a need.

Q I got them to sound good. And when I played a few other things on them I started liking them better and better. Damn that bass was smooth.

st gradually up to the center from there to about the sixth band. It sounde d fantastic, but was inefficient as hell. First of all it was 2.3 ohms, poi son to at least half of the amps known in existence, or not actually...

Good sound, especially Bass is a matter of moving air. It takes a certain a mount of surface area to move sufficient air to get clean, smooth bass. In my direct experience concentrating mostly on vintage equipment (my most rec ent amp other than the homebrew is c. 1980) is that every one of them is pe rfectly happy down to 2 ohms, and my two front-line devices are stable to 1 ohm if short-term, and will shut themselves off if long term. I drive nomi nal 4-ohm AR3a speakers and nominal 6-ohm Maggies as the two extremes - no worries. The rest of the lot are much more conventional nominal 8-ohm devic es.

the rear channels in my quad system. Fed them with a supposedly low power S ansui 771. I scoped it once and don;t remember the reading but it was well over a hundred a channel into that 2.3 ohms. The front was the Marantz 4270 running into speakers I put together. A 12 inch three way system, decent d ome tweeters, noting fancy ad did not sound perfect, but I had an EQ for th em as well. Separate EQs for front and back. Yup.

If you *needed* equalization with decent drivers in a homebrew speaker, I s uspect that your crossovers may have needed work as well, and you were over coming their limitations - no shame in that, but it also makes your fascina tion with equalization more reasonable. And a good thing that using such me ans did get you where you wanted to be in the end.

, at least in the current crowd. And I had it with the Advent five foot sil ver screen job with the mirror out front, AND MINE WAS CALIBRATED. Someone has just changed all three CRTs but it had another problem nobody could fix . Nobody else that is.

You understand that Henry Kloss began to go deaf with increasing rapidity r ight around the time he moved away from speakers and audio to TV. His proje ction TV was a tour-de-force, with its biggest problem after the expense wa s in keeping it running, much less setting it up in the first place. Like t he little girl with the pretty curl. When it was good, it was very, very go od. When it was bad, it was just awful.

Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote: ">"Anywho, the cause of your "washed out"

"And you are probably white clipping. "

-got anything positive to add, jurb?

We had one of the Advents in our living room. One day the video died. We didn't have a scope at the house and all the parts in the video circuit checked okay. What we eventually found was that there was a transistor with over 30v on the collector. It worked perfectly up to

29v, then when this threshold was surpassed, it ceased to amplify. Hours of pure enertainment.

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I suspect that your crossovers may have needed work as >well, a..."

It was the fact that the cabinet was way too small. The passive radiator wa s much bigger than the original woofer. Kind of a slim cabinet also, not mu ch volume. Actually they were a bit smaller than Boston Acousics A-70. Thos e had a relatively small cabinet, and shallow, which I like. The Bostons al so have a dowel in the middle to stiffen the front and rear baffles. They h andled the small volume by using a seriously low impedance woofer and a dec ent 12 dB crossover. I read the DC resistance of a woofer out of an A-150 a nd it was 3.2 ohms. I realize they are inductive but that is about the lowe st I've seen on something supposedly 8 ohms. IRC lower than those famous 8 inch EPIs.

Anyway, by "AKer" I meant a member of Audiokarma. Them people are really in to this stuff. Some of these guy have systems up into six figures, but that is really usually more than one system. They are into restoring old Marant zes, Pioneers, etc. and a bunch of high end brands I had never heard of. Se parate arms and turntables, homemade solid plinths. Changing like ALL the c aps in an amp or speaker crossover. Things like that. And tubes. There is a whole tube section and they are building tube amps. In fact I sold some bi g irons to a guy in Chicago last year, I'll have to dig up his phone number an find out what he did with them. They were a hundred bucks but worth it as they are Chicago BO-15s which are kinda hard to come by. They are full W illiamson with BOTH screen and cathode taps. I have actually come to prefer solid state.

Do you know what white clipping is ? It is like when the display hits its maximum brightness than 100 IRE. Say between 70 and 100 IRE it does not get any brighter. It makes the picture white out on bright scenes.

Sometimes you are not aware of it. Without side by side comparisons you'll never know if it is in the source or the set.

I'm curious about that sensor you mentioned, what, it detects the color temperature ? Something like that ?

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote: "- show quoted text - Do you know what white clipping is ? It is like when the display hits its maximum brightness than 100 IRE. Say between 70 and 100 IRE it does not get any brighter. It makes the picture white out on bright scenes.

Sometimes you are not aware of it. Without side by side comparisons you'll never know if it is in the source or the set. "

I usually set it via a scene with sunlit clouds in it if I don't have my patterns with me.

"I'm curious about that sensor you mentioned, what, it detects the color temperature ? Something like that ? "

No! You're talking out the wrong end again. The sensor senses ambient room light, and raises or lowers the backlight to compensate. Has nothing to do with color temp.

So you are referencing color temp to nothing ? There has to be something you can see to tell you if there is the proper amount of red, green and blue. How do you do that ?

you can see to tell you if there is the proper amount of red, green and blu e. How do you do that ?

I don't think he does. He appears to rely on the stability of the newer TVs and just sets up the user controls.

snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com:

!

Yup, that's what I was talking about. I knew there must be something out there.

Hey Tim R, haven't heard from you in a while.

I did what you all said, the family isn't complaining. I haven't made up my mind if I like it or not, but I don't watch much TV, it's mostly for the wife and daughter.