Toshiba vertical IC caps?

It's probably just the caps, I don't think I've ever replaced the IC in a Toshiba. IIRC there's only 2 or 3 caps in this circuit, usually they're red.

I'd caution the OP about removing all those caps until he gets replacements. Otherwise, keep really good notes, preferably digital images. Nothing sucks worse than taking something apart and forgetting how to put it back together....

jak

That's good news about the IC, since I haven't removed it yet. Sounds like I might have removed some caps for nothing. You're right about it having three caps that are colored reddish or brownish, but definitely different than the others. I have those removed and marked. They are: C305-2uf-50 v, C311-100uf-35v and C-342-1uf-50v. They are numbered similarly to others, why are they a different color and are they special in any way? So, the other caps are not part of the Vertical circuit or they just typically don't go bad? What about the ones that are numbered in the C-800 range? Not in the circuit, and probably don't need to be replaced?

Yeah, I know what you mean. More than once I've taken something apart and been interrupted in the process with "honey dooos" and such, and not remembered how it went back together. I'm drawing a good diagram, taking notes and labeling them with masking tape. Still, let too much time go bye between tearing apart and reassembling and shit happens.

Usually just C305 & C308 on this model. And resolder the IC.

Leonard

Capacitors aren't horribly expensive, and if you buy them by mail order, most companies charge a minimum. So it doesn't hurt to shotgun them.

This problem almost always arises when repairs are tried with standard recipes. Normally there is no reason to remove an electrolytic cap, if it is not

- a high voltage type (maybe leaks)

- located at a hot point on the board (maybe dried up) or

- looking exploded (is shorted).

Your problem does sound as if your pictures geometry is at fault. If height and width are ok, then try to find out, which geometry adjusters do still work and which not. Then try to find out, how those circuits work and why yours might not.

Regards, H.

PS With electrolytic cap, do not only remember where it sat, but too, which way round.

In this case, these capacitors are almost always bad. It's easy enough to just replace the ones that usually fail, sure they may not always all be bad, but it's cheap, how much is your time worth? I see a LOT of bad electrolytics in all sorts of equipment, many times they look just fine, but the ESR has gone up so much they don't perform well in circuit.

I'm not having any luck finding parts locally. Where is a good place to guy them online?

Digi-Key, Mouser, MCM, Parts Express, Jameco, JDR Microdevices, All Electronics, Electronic Goldmine, there's many others.

I've been looking at caps at various web pages and am going cross-eyed. What's up with the different color of these caps in question? Is it just a certain brand using a different color? To replace caps, is there anything to know other than match the "uf" and the voltage ... and of course, install them with the polarity correct? I thought I read somewhere about being able to go, somewhat, "over size" with the voltage ... or did I dream that?

The color is arbitrary, depends on the brand, manufacturing line, date, etc, it's just coincidence that most of the caps in the vertical area are reddish.

You want to match the uF rating, voltage can go higher, but I would try to keep it within 200% of the original rating, if you go too high the ESR tends to rise as well. Even the uF rating is often not critical at all, but don't substitute that unless you know what you're doing.

OK, and what about the temperature rating? Some are 105 C and others are 85 C. On this web page they are all 85 C. Are they OK to use where the old ones were 105?

I would use 105c for all of them given the choice, 85c will work, but likely won't last as long.