SMD Fuse ID

Because they are cheap and can be wave soldered and last but not least screw the buyer.

KenW

B probably indicates 125mA

check the size "1206" (3 x 1.5mm)

KenW,

Well that is a very honest response.

Thank You!!

Les

Littelfuse smd 'B' is 0.125A

RL

Matsuo KAH 1005/0402 P 0.20 Q 0.25 R 0.315 S 0.40 T 0.50 U 0.63

V 0.80

1 1.00 W 1.25 X 1.60 2 2.00 Y 2.50

littelfuse 1206 very fast acting ROHS

0466.125 .125 B 0466.200 .200 C 0466.250 .250 D 0466.375 .375 E 0466.500 .500 F 0466.750 .750 G 0466 001. 1.00 H 0466 1.25 1.25 J 0466 01.5 1.50 K 0466 1.75 1.75 L 0466 002. 2.00 N 0466 02.5 2.50 O 0466 003. 3.00 P 0466 004. 4.00 S 0466 005. 5.00 T

littelfuse 1206 very fast acting

0433.125 .125 B 0433.200 .200 C 0433.250 .250 D 0433.375 .375 E 0433.500 .50 F 0433.600 .60 .6 0433.750 .75 G 0433.800 .80 .8 0433 001. 1.0 H 0433 1.25 1.25 J 0433 01.5 1.5 K 0433 1.75 1.75 L 0433 002. 2.0 N 0433 02.5 2.5 O 0433 003. 3.0 P 0433 004. 4.0 S 0433 005. 5.0 T

Littelfuse 1206 fast acting ROHS

429.125 0.125 FB 429.200 0.200 FC 429.250 0.250 FD 429.375 0.375 FE 429.500 0.500 FF 429.750 0.75 FG 429 001 1.00 FH 429 007 7.0 FU 429 007L 7.0 7

1206 delay

0430.500 0.5 TF 0430 001. 1.0 TH 0430 01.5 1.5 TK 0430 002. 2.0 TN 0430 003. 3.0 TP

0603 ultrafast

0434.250 .250 D 0434.375 .375 E 0434.500 .500 F 0434.680 .680 X 0434.750 .750 G 0434 001. 1.00 H 0434 1.25 1.25 J 0434 01.5 1.50 K 0434 1.75 1.75 L 0434 002. 2.00 N 0434 02.5 2.50 O 0434 003. 3.00 P 0434 03.5 3.50 R 0434 004. 4.00 S 0434 005. 5.00 T

Littelfuse 1206 fast

0437.250 .250 D 0437.375 .375 E 0437.500 .500 F 0437.750 .750 G 0437001. 1.00 H 04371.25 1.25 J 043701.5 1.50 K 04371.75 1.75 L 0437002. 2.00 N 043702.5 2.50 O 0437003. 3.00 P 043703.5 3.50 R 0437004. 4.00 S 0437005. 5.00 T 0437007. 7.00 W 0437008. 8.00 X

Littelfuse 0603 ultrafast

0467.250 .25 D 0467.375 .375 E 0467.500 .500 F 0467.750 .750 G 0467 001. 1.00 H 0467 1.25 1.25 J 0467 01.5 1.50 K 0467 1.75 1.75 L 0467 002. 2.00 N 0467 02.5 2.50 O 0467 003. 3.00 P 0467 03.5 3.50 R 0467 004. 4.00 S 0467 005. 5.00 T

littelfuse 1206 slow blow ROhs

0468 001. 1.00 TH 0468 01.5 1.50 TK 0468 002. 2.00 TN 0468 003. 3.00 TP

Littelfuse 1206 delay ROHS

0468.500 TF 001. TH 01.5 TK 002. TN 02.5 TO 003. TP

Littelfuse 0402 very fast

0435.250 .25 + 0435.375 .375 : 0435.500 .5 o 0435.750 .75 % 0435 001. 1 l 0435 1.25 1.25 8 0435 01.5 1.5 blank 0435 1.75 1.75 X 0435 002. 2 O

vishay 0603

500 mA F 630 mA CT 750 mA G 800 mA CV 1.0 A H 1.25 A J 1.5 A K 1.6 A EF 1.75 A L 2.0 A N 2.5 A O 3.0 A P 3.15 A 3.5 A R 4.0 A S 5.0 A T

vishay 0805

500 mA F 630 mA CT 750 mA G 800 mA CV 1.0 A H 1.25 A J 1.5 A K 1.6 A 1.75 A 2.0 A N 2.5 A O 3.0 A P 3.15 A EL 3.5 A R 4.0 A S 5.0 A T

vishay 1206

500 mA F 630 mA CT 750 mA G 800 mA CV 1.0 A H 1.25 A J 1.5 A K 1.6 A EF 1.75 A L 2.0 A N 2.5 A O 3.0 A P 3.15 A EL 3.5 A R 4.0 A S 5.0 A T 6.3 A ET ........................

0468 littelfuse 1206 slow

001. H 1.25 J 01.5 K 002. N 02.5 O 003. P 03.5 R 004. S 005. T 006. U 007. W 008. X

SF bournes 1206 F = 0.50 K = 0.80 L = 1.00 M = 1.25 P = 1.50 S = 2.00 T = 2.50

3 = 3.00 W = 4.00 Y = 5.00 Z = 7.00

CCH bussman 1206 CC12H1A 1 H CC12H1.5A 1.5 K CC12H2A 2 N CC12H2.5A 2.5 O CC12H3A 3 P CC12H3.5A 3.5 R CC12H4A 4 S CC12H4.5A 4.5 X CC12H5A 5 T

2410 TE 1206 2410SFV0.50FM C 2410SFV0.63FM S 0.6 2410SFV0.75FM/125-2 D 0.8 2410SFV1.00FM/125-2 E 1.0 2410SFV1.25FM/125-2 F 1.3 2410SFV1.50FM/125-2 G 1.5 2410SFV2.00FM/125-2 I 2.0 2410SFV2.50FM/125-2 J 2.5 2410SFV3.00FM/125-2 K 3.0 2410SFV3.15FM/125-2 V 3.2 2410SFV3.50FM/125-2 L 3.5 2410SFV4.00FM/125-2 M 4.0 2410SFV5.00FM/125-2 N 5.0 2410SFV6.30FM/125-2 O 6.3 2410SFV7.00FM/125-2 P 7.0 2410SFV8.00FM/125-2 R 8.0 2410SFV10.0FM/125-2 Q 10.0 2410SFV12.0FM/065-2 X 12.0 2410SFV15.0FM/065-2 Y 15 2410SFV20.0FM/065-2 Z 20

Yeah, but the average buyer these days demands low prices. Price is probably the defining feature when the Joe Consumer goes shopping.

In defense of smd fuses, they don't fail for no reason (except those stupid ceramic ones with the bonded metal caps), so if Joe Consumer doesn't recognize it as a fuse, he can't put a foil gum wrapper around it.

Other than a socketed fuse, they are easier to change than any other type of through the hole mounted fuse.

You could do better by not using silly names like, "Joe consumer". Use "average consumer" instead. Good work though.

Piss off charger boy. Nobody gives two s**ts about your opinions.

--
"I am a river to my people." 
Jeff-1.0 
WA6FWi 
http:foxsmercantile.com

I think you do. Are you able to chase me? Don't get out of breath.

The B is 0.125A. See the "Part Marking System" section on the last page.

Regulatory compliance for adequate fire and safety protection requires a fuse. UL doesn't care if it is user accessible or buried under a pile of wires. If you want the UL sticker, it must have a fuse of some sorts.

One must suffer before enlightenment. At least that how all the fables, parables, anecdotes, and internet explanations are commonly inscribed.

Are you prepared to pay for the best? (The worst you already have in the form of an SMT fuse). For a little more $$$, the manufacturer might supply a PPTC resettable fuse: Nothing to replace when it blows. Just give it time to cool down.

Or, the manufacturer could add an SMD size fuse holder: However, these are NOT cheap and will not work with a 1206 size fuse.

Or, the manufacturer could switch to a much larger cartridge fuse, which offer a PCB mount fuse holder.

Y'er welcome.

Incidentally, I'm more irritated with non-resettable thermal fuses used on tranformers and kitchen appliances. These fuses are usually buried under a layer of difficult to remove Kapton tape.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

So Jeff, let me ask you.

If I would replace or jumper the B = RXEF010 resetable fuse the board would work, meet code, and almost never have to concern myself with it in the future??

Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks,

Les

Sorry my bad. I forgot to look at the voltage spec.

Maybe a 250R120-R2 - 250R would do the trick.

Please advise.

Thanks!!

Les

Hey guess what... I finally clicked on your little website. It did not disappoint! HHhahahah. You are a gem.

Would you prefer to replace the fuse with the same type and rating, or throw the thing in the garbage, next time ?

RL

Now that I know there might be a resetable fuse available.

What I was thinking was to replace the fuse with a "resetable" as suggested by Jeff. A resetable that had a compatible rating and was available at a quantity of maybe 10 each or so. That way, I would have some available for other boards in the future should I need any. It is simple, as opposed to buying a whole new board for $25.00 + Tariff + Tax + Shipping + etc. etc. for the cost of a $0.80?? part.

Les

Look at such a great effort all for me! Thanks comic book boy. lol.

You're going to buy a part, so buy the right one.

A PTC fuse won't do the same job - they require more info than you have to apply reliably.

RL

Ok??

RL,

What additional information would I need "to buy the right one"??

120VAC .125 amps fast acting a good one shows 5.9 ohms while installed on board ? 55 deg C to 90 deg C.

So maybe this one??

The LVR025S to be specific.

BTW this is more of an experiment or some personal edification.

As is said; Need to learn something new ever day.

Thanks for any input. (Quality input that is)

Les

Oh look, monkey boy figured out how to change his name.

--
"I am a river to my people." 
Jeff-1.0 
WA6FWi 
http:foxsmercantile.com

No. I would replace it with as close to the original SMD fuse as possible. In an emergency, I might replace the tiny SMD fuse with a much larger fuse with wire leads. If doing development work on a prototype, I would probably install a rather expensive socket and rectangular fuse. However, for consumer use, it will always be the original fuse.

The reason is that I don't know anything about the device that you own. Most important, I don't know what it will do if a low AC voltage is applied to the device. That's what will happen with a PTC resettable fuse. The circuit does not go to completely open when the PTC fuse is tripped. It goes to a fairly high resistance, and then only as long as the fuse remains hot. To keep it hot, there has to be a high current going through the fuse. That means there's power applied to the rest of the PC board while the fuse is tripped. If you look at the specs, that's the "hold current". Done correctly, that will keep the fuse warm, and the power MOSTLY removed from the rest of the circuit. Done wrong, it is possible that the fuse will cause the device to cycle on and off repeatedly as the PTC fuse cycles through hot and cold cycles. There are places and devices where a resettable fuse is appropriate and safe. However, since I have no idea what you're working with, I can't predict what will happen if you cram in a PPTC resettable fuse and certainly don't want to take the risk suggesting you do something that might be unsafe.

Also, is this really a problem that is worth solving? I doubt it. Put in the correct fuse and you won't have to worry about the device burning your house down.

Incidentally, I once repaired a small 13.6V 30A switching power supply, which had a PPTC resettable fuse in the AC line. The problem was obvious as there was a hole burned into the PCB where the PTC resettable fuse had been. I could find no part number or specs on the fuse making replacement difficult. I soon discovered why they used a resettable fuse. It wasn't for convenience or size. It was because the inrush current on this power supply was so high, that even a slow-blo fuse would blow up if switched on with a 15A load. The designer decided to use the PPTC fuse as an inrush current limiter, which is a really bad idea. At some point along the load curve and near maximum current, the operating point landed on the transition line between low and high resistance. Since there was no hysteresis in the transition line, the maximum power dissipation point for the PPTC fuse was also somewhere along the curve. As bad luck would have it, the customer's was operating almost on the same point of the curve, causing the PTC fuse to become very hot. After a few days of this kind of abuse, it burned a hole in the PCB and carbonized the PTC fuse.

I made a few measurements and calculations and found a higher current replacement PTC fuse. That brought the PTC fuse transition line to somewhat higher than the maximum current. That fixed one problem and created a new problem. The PTC would never trip because the over-current protection in the power supply would turn down the power supply before the PTC fuse was able to do the same. However, the over-current protection was set to begin at about 10A above the maximum output current and had no hysteresis. So, this mess is going to require some redesign. I changed a few parts to bring the over-current threshold to the maximum rated current and enabled hysteresis by installing a resistor that the designer forgot. I replaced the PTC fuse with a Slo-Blo conventional fuse, and inserted a PTC thermistor inrush current limiter intended only to prevent blowing the fuse under normal operation. Problem solved and it's been working just fine for about 3 years.

Are you prepared to do something similar with your "circuit board"?

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558