Bent away from the chassis, but not creased. These facia are relatively thick and have quite a forceful set (springiness) in the bend. Other than contact glue and clamping back is there a pre-treatment in the way of annealing the metal or something to remove the set. ? Otherwise it is likely strong enough to overcome the glue, as metal to metal.
-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
If you heat it it will discolor. Just glue it. I had the same thing happen to an old Master Lead 50 that I used to own. Glued it and that was the end of it.
On the older amps and the valve tops, the cabinet holds the fascia tight against the chassis, on the newer stuff it doesn`t and the gold panel can bend as you withdraw the chassis. I spose the correct way to do it is the remove all the knobs etc, flatten the panel by rolling it the 'wrong way' then refit it. And be more careful removing the chassis next time :^)
Ron(UK)
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This was pre-existing , I tend to use a couple of strips of celluloid at the ends on replacing, when tight, to reduce problems of catching. I am thinking of chamfering, edge relieving, the aluminium edges slightly with all these sort of clad facia amps with an old carpenter's spoke-shave or plane or even just the corners back an inch or so - any thoughts ?
-- Diverse Devices, Southampton, England electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
Yes, I'm thinking you shouldn't be altering/modifying anyones possibly precious (to them) gear, without asking them first.
Ron(UK)
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