how to bypass dremel tool internal variable speed control?

I have one of those HF pseudo-dremels. Not very torque-y at all. Bogs down very easily. A very light touch is required.

Jerry

But that's the point, those things have really high speed to do the work, and you shouldn't be using much pressure.

Try sawing through a bolt. You'd have to use the hacksaw and lots of pressure. Put a cutoff wheel in the "rotary tool", and you barely need to apply any pressure. The first time I tried a cutoff wheel in one of those things was the day I realized how wonderful they were.

Now, your cheap one may have other problems. But a light touch is what's required with "rotary tools" anyway.

Michael

I've got a good air powered one of those for the "serious stuff" but the crappy dremels don't even stund up th the "balsa and toenails" type jobs.

Built mine about 15 or more years ago in a $2 surplus project box, using the cord from an old iron and the receptacle from an old stove-top with a dimmer I picked up in a box of stuff at an auction. I think total cast was $5 or less and it STILL looks and works just fine.

snipped-for-privacy@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Michael Black) wrote in news:fc77ij$i20$ snipped-for-privacy@theodyn.ncf.ca:

the motor on a Dremel is a lot bigger than the motor on the Harbor Freight tool.

clare at snyder.on.ca wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I have a Dremel 270 that I've had for 20 years or more. I have a homemade "lamp dimmer" speed control I often use with it. It's no "crappy tool".

Maybe the newer ones are,though.

Well, balsa is no problem, byt dam, Clare, those toenails....

Pneumatic rotary tool at 120psi, should fix a stereo in a matter of seconds ;) It's a "I fixed it, now go back to radioshack"

Not to dig up an old topic, but I just ran into this

If it runs at all, hopefully at full speed, jst plug it in to a sewing machine rheostat, Works fine for me.

Boris

Plus the collets are brass and wear out in no time. Good for a one or two time use project, no substitute for a pneumatic die grinder. Bearings suck on them, too. Whadda ya want for $6 anyway? Spend a couple of bucks more and get the mini-pneumatic die grinder. Some of the ones I have accept Foredom collets, too.

Stan

Well you need an air compressor for one of those, a tool relatively few people own. I use a pneumatic die grinder occasionally, but it's louder than my Dremel and it spews out a bit of oil in use.

Sorry not to reply to this directly, I don't seem to have the original.

If you're interested in making PCBs have you looked at the mailing list "homebrew snipped-for-privacy@yahoogroups.com" and their archives?

Well that would defeat the purpose of the oil in the first place, which is squirted into the tool to lubricate the air motor. Perhaps you're referring to the high speed air turbine tools? Either way unless you already have the compressor as I did, an electric tool is far cheaper and is not tethered to a big heavy noisy piece of equipment.

My $12 die grinder calls for 1-2 drops of oil per use, I've never seen oil come out of it Gerry :-)} London, Canada

Tethered? I plumbed my house[*] for air. ;-)

Call Dremel . They will probably replace it free .

According to James Sweet :

Ouch!

I certainly do. :-)

Hmm ... this is cross-posted to the following newsgroups:

sci.electronics.basics sci.electronics.repair rec.crafts.metalworking alt.engineering.electrical

Of those, the third (rec.crafts.metalworking) is likely to have a very

I forget what the application was for the Dremel (somewhere upthread) so I don't know whether the oil is a problem or not. If working on metal, I would suggest that the oil is probably a benefit, not a problem.

If oil is a problem, I would second the suggestion for a Foredom. Note that not only does it have a fairly hefty flexible shaft, but for smaller tools (e;g. what a Dremel would be comfortable driving) there is a handpiece with a short very flexible shaft just before it which makes precise hand control a lot easier. I use an ancient Foredom with the extra flexible handpiece for tuning English concertina reeds, with a Dremel foot pedal for speed control, from a near total stop (needed on the tiny reeds at the upper end of the collection in a typical concertina) to near full speed (for the lowest pitch reeds).

Enjoy, DoN.

According to James Sweet :

The big and heavy I would agree with for any compressor adequate to drive a die grinder, but *noisy*? It may be that you have the wrong air compressor. The oilless ones tend to be *very* noisy, but the oil wetted ones, with a belt drive from the motor to the compressor tends to be very quiet in comparison. Yes, there are bursts of chugging from time to time, but no problem from my point of view at least. I would not have one of the oilless ones in my shop.

As for heavy -- I just installed a reel fed hose on the ceiling to allow me to reach any place in the shop where I am likely to need air. Someday, I will probably plumb it for drops near each likely place of use.

Enjoy, DoN.