I have a phillips 29 inch tv(model PT4423) which lost power suddenly.
After replacing a shorted chopper transistor in the switching circuit and two open resistors the TV came back to live with another problem.
When ever a picture is pumped into the TV's AV sockets the picture shrinks vertically before shutting down. Further attempts to on the tv after that is not possible, unless the power is recycled. I've replace the main filter capacitor, main bridge rectifier, output regulator, PWM ic and a few zener diodes but the problem is still there. Next I plan to replace the opto-coupler.
What do you think is the problem? Could there be a problem with the deflection circuit?
the chopper transistor is a MOSFET, The exact parts were used in the replacement.
but almost everything in the power supply circuit has been replaced. I suspect the mosfet has taken out one or two more components in the switching circuit that I'm missing or could there is a problem with the defection circuit?
On the flyback you most likely have a B+ or some may call it a C+ since this source is derived from a tap on the fly back.
It's common to monitor one of these sources for a quick shut down, because it covers the flyback area problem and supply going to it. How ever, caps do go bad here and the ripple being seen could be just enough to shut it down when the circuit gets loaded.
This is a good time to use your scope, if you have one. First you test the gate signal to the MosFet you replaced. My guess is it should be a PWM type signal and should vary when load varies. You want to see what the duty cycle is. what I have done in the past to test for this is to put a low load R on the output of the supply while I am watching the scope to see if the duty system increases to maintain output. Of course, you could also just simply watch the output with a DMM as you alternate your external load R.
While you're probing around with the scope, see how clean the signal is at the switching supply's output after rectification and filtering.
I've seen bad UF switching type diodes/rectifiers go bad, they test ok with a meter but have slow recovery issues under operation. Make sure you replace these types with equally fast units. A good indication of this is one operating hot.. This is a good time for a hand held IR meter. :)
Next, check the Secondary supplies coming from the flyback for any ripple around 15khz.. You shouldn't see much at all. if you do, it could be bad caps or slow recovering diodes.
P.S. since the original MosFet was shorted, have you checked to make sure the switching transformer leads are well soldered in? This was a common problem back then and depending where the lead was that had a cracked joint, it could cause intermitting back EMF on the MosFet and short it.
Also, you may want to test for the Drain voltage and signal via the scope to make sure you are not getting any over voltages that look like spikes.
The only thing that I would add is to be very VERY careful when you start waving a 'scope around the primary side circuitry of a switcher. Make very sure that you know where your ground reference is, as it is very likely that the ground lead on your probe will be common with the 'scope's chassis, which will in all likelihood, be bonded to the earth of the line power feeding it. The bang that this can produce, and the trail of catastrophe that ensues, can be spectacular ...
What happens if you use a video source that's portable, runs of batteries, and isn't connected to mains or anything else (such as a portable dvd player)?
An update on my repair situation. I decided to follow all the instruction gathered here and some from Sam, beginning with the easiest first. This is what I got. By reducing the G2 and brightness all the way down the TV works fine, no shutdown. Even with a decent brightness and G2 cranked up and decent picture available, it does not shutdown. However when there is some bright scene there is signs of tendency to shutdown. When the the brightness and G2 is cranked up too much it shutdowns. The voltages from the power supply seems to be stable during the shutdown, not sure about the currents though.
Is the problem more likely in the power supply or deflection side?
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