cooktop infinite switch replacement

I am about to replace the infinite switches for my Jenn-Air cooktop ( replace all four, including knobs). On eBay I see many different models, including "universal" versions. Even the universal ones have two different part numbers, e.g., 5500-202 and 5500-225. The electrical specs both says 240V/15A and the pin out looked the same as my originals. With the screw nut mounting kit, I think they will work in my cooktop. Is there a problem with this plan? Note: exact OEM type replacement part costs upwards of 30 bucks each. Since my cooktop is already quite old, I can't see spending that much for a set. Thanks.

Reply to
juliuslr
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I've been fixing my own range now for 20+ years and only repaired two infinite switches (and one was a universal someone had installed incorrectly - they used the pilot light contacts to switch the range element).

They are easy to repair. Might take you all of a half hour the first time as the parts tend to want to get away when you pop the cover off.

Use a small needle file, fingernail sander (those things women use - don't know what to call it - thin piece of wood with sand adhered to the surface) clean the contacts, put a touch of silicon grease on the plastic cam and it will work like new for another 20 years. If you use emery cloth, be careful to clean any particles off, emery is conductive.

I have a Cashwell Appliance catalog and they list a lot of switches, but no Jenn-Air. The two basic types of universal I see are push-and-turn and turn type. Can you question the Ebay seller?

Universals start at about $13 in the catalog with some, specific ones going for ~$35 (trade cost). They all look very similar and would probably all work . . .

When they say universal, they mean it. The shaft length is adjustable by breaking off sections and there's a series of round, half-round, adapters that will slip over it - the basic shaft without adapters works on GE Hotpoint Penncrest and others. There's also a plate that allows the center nut to be used instead of two machine screws.

If you have the time and inclination, try resurfacing the contacts.

If there's a wholesaler/distributor of appliance parts where you live, convince them you are a related business (like TV repair) and want to start with appliances - convince them you deserve the wholesale price and pick up four universals. That's how I got my catalog - needed an oil burner ignition transformer and washing machine motor. Paid 1/3 retail for them. The people were knowledgeable and helpful too.

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They're called "emery boards"

Reply to
Jumpster Jiver

That makes sense. Damn handy tool,

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I contacted the seller on eBay and got more info. Will probably order that soon ($12.70 a piecee). BTW, I took one a apart a few months ago ( a used one) and a couple of things popped off and dissappeared ... needless to say, that one ended up in the trash :-)

Reply to
juliuslr

That's what happened my first time too. Fidgety little spring in there wanted freedom in the worst way.

The switch is only about a "three" on the Chinese degree of difficulty scale. (CDD "10" = only Chinese women with infinite patience and very small hands can do it)

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Just for for an precaution in case I get my wire labels fall off, can anyone point to website where there is a schematic on how to wire these

4 switches? I plan to do this one at a time, removing and replacing the wire as I go. The terminals are P, L1, L2, H1, and H2. I think H1 and H2 goes to the heating coils, L1 is one end of the 240VAC, and L2 is the other half of the 240VAC, and P for the pilot light? Do I get that right? TIA for your help.
Reply to
juliuslr

That's right

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