Anybody have a schematic for the SMPS for this laptop?

Don't have the schematic, but tracing out the input part from the board oughta be trivial. Anything particular you're trying to determine?

pigtail fuse size [can't read without removing]

any potential parts that may have zapped when the liquid hit it while powered.

This is a "fat snake" right? Can these be repaired? I always thought they were completely potted with epoxy. I've never seen one that was screwed together.

Every thinkpad supply I've seen has been free of vent holes. You'd have to drop in a puddle and leave it there to get much liquid in.

You gotta take out the fuse to replace it. If it's not marked, you can make a guess based on the input current numbers on the sticker.

As for failure, when you fill it up with liquid, the input circuit is not the weakest link. With a new fuse, you should measure continuity between the input connector and the diodes. Check the diodes. That's about all you can do.

More likely, liquid got into the switcher and smoked the main switch transistor blowing the fuse. Check resistance source to drain on the FET.

Depending on what liquid, how long before it got throughly neutralized and thoroughly dried, you may want to find a dumpster.

It's not extremely likely, but if some bit of corrosion grows and causes the output voltage to increase to levels lethal to the thinkpad, you'll be looking for a slightly bigger dumpster. If it catches fire and burns down your house, you'll need a REALLY BIG dumpster.

The risk is critically dependent on whether the liquid was clean water dried immediately or cat pee left for a month.

I've never seen one potted. Clamp it in a vise and whack the seam with a wood chisel. With practice, they snap apart relatively easily.

I've seen them glued together and held together with screws. Usually they are a simple SMPS, and quite simple to troubleshoot.

PlainBill

Actually, two cables and a plastic box. The box is a 'snap apart' by gently inserting tool along the separation edges.

I don't recall ever seeing a typical clear glass fuse that wasn't permanently marked with numbers pressed into the end cap.

Some old pigtails were often fitted with pressed-on "over" caps (to which the leads were resistance welded), and removing the caps would reveal the numbers in the underlying cap on the glass. Flush-cutting wire cutters, or even a utility knife will cut the pressed-on cap, it's only plated brass.

If the numbers are covered with solder, wick off the solder to reveal the numbers.

-- Cheers, WB .............