Adding RGB input to Sony Trinitron

You might find something useful here.

I saw that, but it looks as if he's using the OSD as the input point. I'd rather not do that since I will need the OSD for setup.

Also, there is another set of RGB inputs on the jungle chip that are tied to the supply line via caps. Maybe this is where the Euro versions inject RGB via the scart input?

FV10%20%20part...

First and foremost. Is the video signal you want to insert the same H and V rate as the TV? TVs are not like computer monitors having multiple line and frame rates. If the rates don't match it will not work. Period. If they are the same rate, you'll have to get signal levels and DC offsets to match. This may require DC restoration amplifiers. Do you know how to build those? This isn't a beginners project and it may be cheaper time and money wise to get the right monitor for the job.

G=B2

Holy christ man......I'm not a complete idiot. I just don't come from a consumer electronics repair background, I was involved in commercial amusement repair for 20 years. Long and short, I need a Trinitron TV to act as an RGB monitor. R/G/B/ and H/V sync inputs is what I need. I have commercial RGB monitors, I just want better image quality.

And yes, I built an RGB video amp to match .7v signals to a TTL video input. I NEED STD RES, 15khz RGB monitor via this TV due to the enhanced performance the Trinitron format offers.......

If you look for a similar commercial version of that Sony chassis, you might find/see what Sony did for RGB inputs. Many Sony chassis have commercial versions, for use in studio environments.. so you may find it easier to obtain the Sony module add-on.

As for the OSD requirement, by retaining a composite video output, setup adjustments could be seen on a small LCD video display, connected just for adjustments.

-- Cheers, WB .............

There is a training manual for the BA-4 chassis here. I know yours is BA-4D but just skip over for that for now.

On page 70 at the bottom V & H pulses are shown as inputs to IC001 MICRO, which on your BA-4D set for V looks like Pin 2 of that chip (I-VPN). It is fed from Pin 5 (VTIM - vertical timing?) of IC301 chroma jumgle chip - but needn't be I wonder?

The jungle chip is a CXA2061S, it's a 'Y/C/RGB/D for NTSC Color TVs.

CXA2061S Datasheet :)

And there is a further manual here for your BA-4D chassis

HTH!

Not necessarily. It depends on how different the rates are. In general, if the incoming frequency is higher, you'll probably get sync. You might run into size or linearity problems, however.

Excellent info! Thanks....

ITA

Ok, I've been looking at the datasheet for the jungle chip and it appears I can use the set of unused RGB inputs. I'm a little foggy about the select line tho (YS1). They left it floating, so to select that set of inputs what is it looking for? Just a logic level H or L?

Top of Page 9, description for Pin 25? More than 0.7V switches the input on.

However, there is an I2C register detailed on Page 22 - RGB SEL (1): "Disables YS1 switch selection and prohibits external signal input from RGB1"

If that's set (and it probably is_, then you'll have to find a way to unset that. EEPROM hacking? dunno.

Seems, there is a pin compatible jungle chip, the CXA2060AS which works for PAL sets that will have SCART RGB on those same inputs.

A bit of googling should find you a european Sony set that uses that chip and then ... etc....

(Can't take all the fun away from your expedition!... :-)

Ok, good to know. If the extra RGB input idea doesn't pan out I can always inject the color signals at the RGB outputs on the jungle chip via the RGB amp I had to build to get the video V levels up to where the arcade monitor wanted to get good color saturation and black level.

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Just an update. The extra set of RGB inputs on the jungle chip *was* disabled in software. I got nothing there. So I just injected color inputs at the RGB output pins. So its up and runnin', just some minor tweaks to be done. Thanks everyone for the info....

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Glad to see you got it going. I'm sorry I assumed you didn't know what you're doing. Congratulations.

G=B2

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No harm done. It looks pretty damn good as of now, but I think the bottleneck may be the RGB amp I built. I may look into an IC based circuit that is a little more elegant than what I threw together from whatever I could rob out of junk boards.

I would not recommend doing such a thing. Without a proper NTSC signal, your flyback and horizontal output transformer will be fried.

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Getting back to this project.....while it works, I'm not happy with the video quality with the simple RGB amp I threw together. Seems like theres excessive contrast....backgrounds are too dark and small details are getting buried. So I have an LM1203 I think will do a better job.

I think the circuit in the app notes of the datasheet (p16) will suffice. I'm foggy on what to do with the clamp gate input. They show a sync stripper chip providing its signal, but I'm not working with composite sync.....its seperate H/V passively mixed to "fake" composite. The tv doesn't have a problem with it, but that chip might.

Any insight?

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A "flyback" *is* a horiz output transformer....

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The H drive trailing edge can trigger a 3-5 uSec monostable to make the clamp gate. You just need the timing shown in figure 5 on page 7. If you run into anomalies during the vertical interval you may need to gate out clamp pulses during vertical but it will likely be OK without gating.. Good luck.

G=B2