continuity test pass, but lamp does not go on!

Obviously, I can't be sure but two things I would look at are 1. If there is a back plate where the batteries connect to each other check that. 2 Whether putting the batteries in causes more pressure against the metal plates, thus moving them, causing a loss of connection. You could also double check the new batteries in numerous ways.

Incidently, I sometimes use a metal file to clean things off in similar situations - i.e. where you placed your continuity checker and where the batteries touch may not be the same.

Bill

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Did you but the batteries in both pointing in the same direction?^)

You would want to be careful with this. Battery terminals are usually coated with nickel. filing this off would expose the copper (or whatever they chose to use) underneath, allowing tarnish and further corrosion.

The "file" repair doesn't last very long.

Best to _try_ to clean off only the corrosion, but even sometimes this is not possible, because the corrosion has gone through the nickel. I usually replace in this instance (where possible).

I've tinned with solder, which tarnishes easily, but also cleans easily. Sometimes just rolling the batteries in their case will scratch enough of the tarnish off to reduce the resistance enough to make it work. Not reliable enough for a customer repair though.

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Put the batteries in and leave the lamp out. Switch on and see if you can measure the full battery voltage at the contacts which normally connect to the lamp. If you can see the full voltage with the switch on then make sure it disappears when you switch off. This proves the switch works. If this checks ok then the only possibility is that the torch contacts are not making firmly enough with the lamp contacts or the lamp filament is intermittent open circuit. Try gently tapping the torch with the switch on to check this out. Also you might try this tap test in the torch which showed the lamp to be ok.

}A quite simple question to you guys, but it beats me: } }I have a lamp in which I left the 2 AA batteries for quite some time. }As you know, the green stuff accumulated on the metal parts of the }lamp. By metal parts I mean the metals which come in contact to the }batteries in order to close the circuit. I scraped the green stuff off }and replaced the batteries but the lamp does not go on. I tested the }light bulb on another lamp and it works.

I would be suspicious of the switch (having first checked the batteries to see if I installed them correctly, + to -).

Describe the switch as best you can.

Stan.

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I faced with the same problem several days ago. Very old (30+ years)

2-cell flashlight made for US military. Since it had belonged to my dad so I was tempted to keep it. Batteries good; bulb good; spring at bottom (v-) clean; metal bulb housing clean. But no flash to this light! Turned out it had the old slide-contact type of switch and those contacts were oxidized (no continuity). I tossed the silly thing.