SMT de-soldering

Get a fine tipped soldering iron, heat up one side until it melts, then quickly heat up the other side. Swap your soldering iron between one side and the other and eventually the part will come off

Or just use two soldering irons - one in each hand.

That is a great way to lift pads & traces off a PC board. Use a pair of irons, and lift the resistor as soon as the solder liquefies on both sides. If you have to put it back, a small drop of liquid RMA (Rosin, Mildly Activated) liquid flux, and the pair of irons will reflow the solder. Surface tension will center the ends, so there is no need to worry about trying to position it exactly. Remove one iron. As soon as that end solidifies, remove the other. The rosin will remove any oxides from the existing solder. it takes longer to write about it, than to do it.

I did a lot of this for four years at Microdyne (Now part of L3 Communications) as a production test tech, and engineering tech.

If you're removing this as a permanent function, why not simply snip the body of it with mini cutters?

NO!!! That is another great way to damage a PC board.

Thank you! I'm really glad that I asked, 'cause one-iron-back-&-forth is what I would have tried. I'd have been really unhappy with lifted pads and/or traces.

There's very little chance that I'll be putting it back, but I'll file your advice.

The voice of experience is the best kind.

Thanks again, Bob

I had a bad feeling about snipping it, but it was an appealing idea. Thanks for confirming my feeling.

Bob

You're such a putz, I've done countless of snips like that removing jumpers and have never yet damaged anything other than the component being removed, permanently.

If you were as experienced as you present your self, you would know that, how ever, the truth is out there, obviously.

Don't get miss lead by those that like to just sit their lard behind the keyboard and foam at the mouth.

You do as you wish, but i've done it countless times and have never had any issues. In fact, for removing components when you don't have the proper tools using a mini snipper to remove the body first and then using a conventional iron and tweezers to remove the leads is a norm.

But like I said, you have those that just like to sit there and find nothing but fault with everything that is posted!. They usually have nothing to offer because, that is just the way it is.

It isn't a jumper, you dumbass. It is a zero ohm surface mount resistor. My SMD rework is in orbit, as is your empty head.

There are no leads on SMD parts.

You're welcome. QC couldn't see my rework until I taught them to look at the solder at the proper angles, and under the right lighting. The surface is smoother and has a different color than what is done with paste solder, in a reflow oven. Paste solder is a different alloy, and there is a small film of slag on the surface of the solder fillets, because there is nothing to carry away the lifted oxides from the pads or components. They should be smooth, clean and slightly concave according to the IPC standards.

and what the hell do you think they use 0 ohm R's for you moron.

I'm surprised that brain of yours can generate enough energy to operate the hands on your keyboard.

MORON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 DIP SHIT!

I can see why Phil gets bent out of shape!

No wonder you work as a janitor in a place you are ashamed to name online.

You think electret microphnes are crystal microphones, and are quite illiterate. Typical of a low grade ham radio tech wannabe.

I have a worn out soldering iron bit with the end cut back and a slot filed across it, just a fraction bigger than an 0805 component that I use to remove that size parts. The main issue is with parts that are glued down. It takes a lot of heat to break that bond.

Usually the part being removed remains in the solder on the end of the tip but brushes out on the wet sponge.

That's why I use a pair of irons. Its easy to drop the removed part on the corner of the PC board, or bench so it doesn't get too hot.

Or use one of these gizmos. Several vendors carry them and their relatives, styles from open-loop AC to temperature controlled DC models for various solder stations.

I suck using chopsticks. Can't imagine I'd have better luck coordinating a pair of soldering irons but the tweezer style is easy.

You use the pair of chopsticks in one hand, and the solder irons in two. I did my work under a stereo microscope. A also had three to five soldering irons on my bench at a time. Unless you have extremely poor motor control, it only takes a few minutes to learn the technique.

I've never used one, but I'm familiar with them. I could move the tip less than a thousandth of an inch by watching it through the microscope. I had some .015" Multicore rework solder, and a lot of the ICs I worked with had their pins on .015" center to center.

I did like the Pomona tweezer probes for checking resistors & capacitors. One of the early digital capacitance meters had a zero adjust that let you null out the cable.