In need of a generator for storm outages--Suggestions?

I went with one of these figuring it would have better resale value.

Mikek

Pulling off the cover of your panel and REMOVING the Main breaker would be closer to right.

Investigate how half of your house is on one phase of the split phase feed from the utility and why the other half will get nothing from your jerry rig (unless the generator and dual-male plug are 240V).

There's a metal box on the side of the house with a lever on the side.

It's right below the meter.

Sure sure.. I've got both 'phases' out in the shop and have to switch the plug around to turn on different stuff. I've got 240 out in the shop, but no double male 240 plug. (once ever five years after all)

George H.

The right way is a switch that makes it physically _impossible_ for the utility wiring to ever "see" the genset produced power. Operating the switch disconnects power company wiring from the circuit(s) that will receive power from the genset, and connects the genset to the circuit(s) that will receive that power. The knife switch you have only disconnects the circuit(s), and it could be thrown to the on position while the genset is providing power, allowing genset power to reach the utility company lines.

The correct switch is called a transfer switch. It is UL (or other recognized testing lab) tested and listed for the purpose at the correct voltage and current. The NEC allows the use of products listed by UL or other recognized testing labs. Most local jurisdictions adopt the National Electrical Code (NEC), and may have additional local rules. For example, some allow the homeowner to do his own wiring, some require that it be done by a licensed electrician.

Ed

Doesn't turning off the big knife switch from the power line on the side of the house take care of that?

George H.

It would but I don't know anyone who has one of those.

Tom

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Thanks Ed, I'll have to talk to some local electricians. I don't mind doing ~20A wiring. But a 200 Amp transfer switch, is another matter.

George H.

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Hey, you sorta know me. Should I take a picture and post it?

George H.

Hey, you sorta know me. Should I take a picture and post it?

George H.

No, I know what it is but you won't see them on the main going to the street in Jersey only on sub-panels.

Tom

The "big knife switch" is inside the main cutoff panel - it's the one with the lump in the front cover: the lump is to clear the blades of the BKS.

It also will have either a BMF breaker or a couple of mongo fuses.

Hope This Helps! Rich

It's not necessary, but I'd sure welcome one.

I just posted that the BKS is inside the "main entrance panel," the one with the lump on the front cover and either big fuses or a big breaker inside.

I hope this is accurate.

Cheers! Rich

electric

They have transfer switches that do not need to switch the utility feeder. Instead, the 15, 20 or 30 amp branch circuit(s) are switched, one at a time. Utility power can get to the branch circuit through the main service panel with the transfer switch in one position. Transferring the switch disconnects the branch circuit from the main service panel (and thus from the utility power) and connects that branch circuit to the genset power.

I am not suggesting that you should do it yourself - just mentioning that switches exist that do not need to disconnect the 200 amp feeder. Whether you do it yourself depends on what your locality allows, and your skill. In my locality, not only must the work be performed by a licensed pro, there must be a permit for the work and an inspection when it is done. On top of that, the local utility (Con Edison) sometimes, often, or always (I don't know which) inspects the "power generation facility" (I think that's what they call it) - what you and I call the genset. :-)

Ed

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It's not as cool if you consider that removing the steel face plate from the breaker box removes the interlock gizmo, leaving all breakers still connected. I'm comfortable with hiring a real electrician to install a transfer switch, myself.

The 'maybe even pass inspection' comment is, of course, not a complete reassurance.

For those who want to pinch pennies and not having a large demand for watts, would it be possible to skip the buying of a generator and just get an Inverter, plug into car cigarette lighter and leave car idling in a well ventilated area?

Maybe with this set-up you could get a maximum 500 Watts on an AC extension cord?

Rusty Oxhide

I once saw a hobbyist construction project where they took a horizontal- shaft 'lawmower' motor and mounted it next to the car alternator with a belt. It generated without the car engine running, saving heaps of gasoline.

Have Fun! Rich

I just bought two of these on sale for $99 each:

I have not tried them yet. They run on 50:1 mixture (2-cycle engine)

Here are others:

l

I also have a really old generator I bought from a junkyard for $40. = It's=20 about 3000 watts but the gas engine has problems and I haven't felt like =

digging into it.

You can also get inverters really cheap and then you can use various = ways to=20 get 12-15 VDC to charge a battery. Even connect an alternator to a=20 stationary bike and use pedal power.

For emergency heat, if you don't have a wood stove, kerosene is safe and =

stores well. Also good for lamps. It's good to be prepared for loss of=20 power, especially when large-scale power outages may become common due = to=20 peak oil and problems with coal and nuclear alternatives. Small-scale = solar=20 and wind are also good if local conditions are adequate. There are also=20 other ways to achieve self-sufficiency and a sustainable lifestyle:

Paul=20

I just bought two of these on sale for $99 each:

I have not tried them yet. They run on 50:1 mixture (2-cycle engine) Snip..

Paul

Those will just about keep your coffee warm.

Tom

Well, I have other options if I just want heat. It's silly to burn a = fossil=20 fuel to generate electricity which is then converted to heat. The only = real=20 need for electrical heating in my case is to power the heat tape that = keeps=20 my pipes from freezing.

There are various levels of "necessities". I absolutely need potable = water,=20 but I have a spring-fed stream that I could use, and I have a filtration =

system and some bleach that I could use for purification. Just below = that,=20 for survival, I need food and protection from environmental extremes. = Easily=20 accomplished with canned food and items like beans and rice, and my wood =

stove will keep the temperature reasonably warm. I have used kerosene=20 heaters and oil lamps, which are quite adequate for comfort and I can = read=20 books.

Then there is the "need" to operate small appliances, such as fans, = radios,=20 TVs, computers, etc. An 800 watt generator is perfectly adequate for = those=20 purposes, although one might need to monitor total usage and perform = manual=20 "load shedding". Many items can be run through an inverter powered by=20 batteries, which may be charged with the generator. My computer runs = fine on=20

75 watts, and I could use a direct DC supply from external batteries = kept=20 charged by wind or solar power.

Eventually a significant portion of the earth's population will need to=20 downsize their per capita energy consumption by conservation, shared=20 resources, and alternative sources. At this point, temporary power = failures=20 are opportunities to learn these techniques and test our means for = dealing=20 with it. The website I provided shows many ways we can become more=20 self-sufficient, and less damaging to our environment. Here it is again:

And here is an official document (suppressed by the Bush administration) =

that should be taken seriously:

Paul=20