From breadboard to soldering

Dude, you got it backwards the components go on the blank side and the copper foil side takes solder and makes the connections ...

Or you are playing with us?

Plain un coppered perforated board works too. That stuff you got is supposed to make it easier to transfer directly from the bread board to soldered board. (the layout remains the same)

Your light shield would be more effective if it were matte black inside the PVC, so the sides absorb light that comes at an angle to the axis.

My thoughts also. You usually place the components on the side withut the copper. Then se the longer copper traces to solder the external wires or a connecting component.

Now you tell me.

You knew I was a green noob.

My circuit is not working correctly.

I rechecked my connections.

Don't know what to do next?

Andy

I have some boards with solder points on both sides.

What are they used for?

I ordered Understanding Basic Electronics by Larry D. Wolfgang.

Green noobie

You are putting this stuff together without understanding how it is supposed to work. That's why you are encountering so many problems with, what is, a pretty simple circuit.

You need to know the "theory of operation." What each component is supposed to be doing, then you can logically troubleshoot it.

Check and double check. You had something working and it no longer does. Did you use the same parts from the breadboard in the soldered version? (I mean did you actually take parts off the breadboard and transfer them to the soldered board?) Did you use a different power source?

If everything is identical it should behave identically. If everything is identical and it used to work, and doesn't now that leaves a wiring error.

Not sure what you are asking. Some circuit boards someone else made? If that's the case... they use multi layer boards in some construction. The board may have several layers in a sandwich. That is done to avoid inserting jumper wires to get over traces, or to add power and ground planes (very low impedance connections to power and ground, as well as it makes the board into a bypass capacitor to keep noise off the power bus).

One side of the board may be north south running conductors, the other east and west, and in between power and ground, for instance. Connections between the layers are made via plated-through holes. (sometimes that explains why there will be a plethora of holes that seem to do nothing) Each circuit board is made individually, then cemented together to make a kind of plywood construction. Each board is very thin.

Logical troubleshooting goes something like this: Look at all the symptoms then try to envision one cause that will bring out all those symptoms, then test that hypothesis. (this assumes it did work after construction)

But anyhow, you have to think. Don't give into frustration and don't get emotional. Don't "marry" some scenario, keep an open mind. It requires some discipline. Eventually, after you've surmounted the obstacles, you develop confidence (and ego) and it gets easier.

I find that if I have a humdinger of a problem, it's best to put it down do something else and come back to it. I'll go kayaking, or bake bread, or garden, etc., but won't think about electronics. When I do go back, I try to look at it as if I'm seeing it for the first time.

My subconscious seems to work on problems too. I sometimes wake in the morning with an idea that begs to be tried, or I'll see a different way of designing something.

I was lucky. My OM was an electrical engineer (certified accountant, CEO, private pilot with extra ratings, programmer, and a lot of other things). He'd get home from work and I'd dump all my questions and problems on him, he'd tell me what I was doing wrong. Usually in general terms, he wanted me to find my own mistakes.