Just starting out as a hobbyist in this great field...!!
For whatever reason, I missed out on a lot when I was a boy, so now as an adult learner I'm working through "The Boy Electrician", published by Lindsay Pubs. BTW, this is a great book filled with fun projects that you can actually BUILD.
The project is an electric bell-ringer. I've gotten most of the needed parts so far, the only problem I'm having is securing an iron yoke for the magnet spools and also a small rectangular piece of iron or plate to serve as the armature. I've scoured the net and have found suppliers selling brass, steel, alum, etc, but no iron.
formatting link
---- sells "cast iron" but it doesn't say if its "soft iron" - How important is it that these parts be iron? My thoughts is that the plans call for them to be iron since it would increase the permeability of the magnet spools and the armature.
I've heard that rotors often use iron. Maybe I'll try one from a junkyard if the cast iron is too costly. How difficult is it to remove the iron pieces from the rotor? I'm thinking they may not be the right shape or size for the project. I have no experience taking apart this type of motor, but I'm willing to give it a shot if it means completing the project correctly according to plans.
Any suggestions/advice is greatly appreciated.
Thank you,
Chris
Didn't find your answer? Ask the community — no account required.
H
Homer J Simpson
A piece of steel is probably close enough. Some of these things used to use a collection of iron wires as the yoke. A steel bolt might also work OK. But easiest nowadays might be to find some old transformers and take the laminations out of those.
D
default
I remember having fun with that stuff.
The material is not critical at all. Any bolt or part of one will work fine, same thing with the armature a piece of steel 1/16-1/8" thick would be good. A somewhat harder part may be the piece of spring steel or spring to use and the contacts. If you can find some steel strapping used to bind lumber together that works great for a leaf spring.
You don't have to buy any of that stuff just use what you find in the trash.
The armature needs a spring, of course, but so do the points. If you just make fixed (unmovable) points on the armature, you wind up with a high pitched buzzer. There has to be another spring on one of the contact points to allow inertia and over-travel to slow the action of the armature and clapper.
One source of iron (steel) are railroad spikes. They are about 5/8" square and make a great electromagnet. Almost no residual magnetism when the power is removed. There are lots of 120 V shaded pole induction motors with the same 5/8" square bobbin and coil. A short walk on a track is all it takes to find a few. Hacksaw will cut them and they can be drilled and tapped.
American Science and surplus is a good source for unusual junk and they usually have some induction motors priced cheap - great paper catalog too.
formatting link
Love those Lindsay reprints . . . . I have a collection. I find I have a better appreciation of electronics and history from reading and building the stuff. I made numerous Tesla coils, a very large induction coil, and several static generators using instructions from the turn of the century, or earlier.
Really interesting reading Maxwell and his theories of electricity and magnetism. (Dover Books for Maxwell and Gilbert reprints) He's coming up with all manner of mechanical contraptions in an effort to explain what he thinks is happening in physics. Struggling to explain induction, inductive reactance, resonance, transformers, etc., but without the words and conceptual framework we now take for granted.
You're not likely to find cotton covered wire, gutta percha covered wire, hard rubber sheet, rod, or tubing, but modern wire and plastics work just fine.
----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
formatting link
The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----
B
Bob Eld
Mild steel is iron. In fact low carbon, low manganese steels, AISI 1000 series grades are purer iron than the stuff they used to call iron and cast iron has way more carbon than virtually any steel, go figure! Aside from the pure element iron, the irons of commerce were really a statement of processes used to make them and their lack of purity than anything else. The word steel implied highly refined iron, controlled process, heatreatment, and specific alloys. For your purposes mild steel that hardware store bolts are made of should work fine. Bob
Join the Discussion
Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Didn't find your answer?
Ask the community — no account required
Report Content
You are reporting this content to the moderators. They will look at it
ASAP.