Popped a tiny cap off my NVMe drive while swapping cases, any idea what value I need?

I've fixed a couple of drives with this exact problem, cap ripped off by a pad included. The good news is these caps on NVMe boards are almost never anything exotic. They're either bulk caps sitting on the 3.3 volt input rail near the edge connector, or output caps next to the little voltage regulator chip. Either way, a generic 10 microfarad ceramic in 0603 size will nearly always do the job. If the empty spot sits right beside a coil, go 22 microfarad instead. A 10 or 16 volt rating covers everything on these boards since nothing on there runs high, and any general purpose ceramic type is fine.

Before you solder anything, check that the copper pad is still stuck down on the board. If the cap tore the pad off with it, that's a much bigger job than swapping a part. If the pad is intact, put a little fresh solder on it, hold the cap with tweezers, and touch your iron to the pad til the solder wicks up onto the cap end. Do one side, let it cool, then the other. A dab of flux paste makes this about ten times easier. Honestly a cheap fine-tip iron handles a single cap just fine. Hot air is overkill for one part and honestly more likely to cook the neighbors or blow the cap off the tweezers across the room.

One more thing to look at: a single missing cap often doesn't stop a drive from being detected at all. If yours won't show up in BIOS, get a bright light and magnifier on the whole area and check for a scratched trace near the pad, and inspect the connector fingers for damage from the move. The cap might just be the visible casualty and something else got knocked loose too.

Same experiance here, that advice about skipping hot air is dead on. I popped a cap back onto a drive for a buddy last year using nothing but a cheap pencil iron and some flux, took maybe five minutes. One thing that helped me was tinning just the pads first and letting them cool, then holding the cap down with a toothpick while I reflowed each end. Tried it the other way around the first time and the cap flipped off the tweezers twice. Also second whoever said to check for a scratched trace, becuase on my buddy's drive the cap was fine but a trace under where the pad sat had lifted, and that was the actual reason it wasn't detecting.

One thing I'd try before ordering anything is measuring the cap you alredy have, since it came off in one piece. A multimeter with a capacitance range will get you in the ballpark if you hold the probes on the end terminations, though I'd take the reading with a grain of salt because those little MLCCs read low on cheap meters. If it shows somethig in the single digit microfarad range that backs up the 10uF guess, and if it reads much smaller you were probably looking at a decoupling cap on a supply pin instead, wich changes what you want to buy. Also worth a peek under magnification at the footprint itself, since the pad shape sometimes hints at the part size.