wire for breadboarding

Yep, I'm spoiled. I used to inventory all kinds of parts and boards for my business. Price attrition and obsolescence made this inventory lose value after a few months, making it financially unattractive to continue the practice. However, I had to do this as a long repair time would invariably inspire the customer to look elsewhere for the repair. About 10 years ago, overnight and next day service became sufficiently common to actually be fairly reliable. Instead of stocking rapidly depreciating parts and boards, I started to rely on fast delivery. It doesn't work for everything, but I'm now dependent on it for parts. Also, it's often easier and faster to order a small part on eBay, than to try and find it in my office mess.

Well ok. Maybe if I used a sharp pair of flush cutting diagonal cutters.

I've used one of those mini solder pots on some fairly cluttered benches. I've found that putting it high above the clutter works best. Unfortunately, that means putting it on top of the pile of test equipment, which is often not the safest location. However, putting it high does preserve the test leads and prevents setting fire to the blue prints. With a suitable grating, it can also keep my coffee warm. However, on hot days, I don't run the solder pot.

When I did mostly bench work, I used to consume about a 1 lb roll per year. As I graduated into mismanagement and politics, it decreased to maybe 1 lb roll every 15 years. I'm using partial rolls and a mixture of different types these days. I would guess I'm still at 1 lb every

15 years.

The solder pot does not do so well. It holds about 2 lbs of solder or about $25 worth of surplus bar solder. I find myself replacing the entire contents about once every 6 months if I'm using it heavily.

Incidentally, I discovered that the tiny solder pot is good for tinning component leads and maybe some heavier gauge stranded wire, but is not suitable for battery cables and heavy gauge wire. When I stuffed a piece of #2 AWG stranded into the solder pot, the copper wire made an excellent heat sink, sucking the heat out of the pot, and causing all the solder to harden. I soon had a heavy wire with ALL the solder in the pot stuck to the end. I had to use a propane torch to melt the solder and put most of it back in the pot. Oops.

Many years ago, I picked up a fairly large box of broken Weller soldering stations and tips, from one of the aerospace companies. Apparently, it was their "to be fixed" collection. By juggling parts around and doing trivial repairs, I was able to get about half of them working. That was maybe 30 years ago. There are better and cheaper irons available today, but until I run out of parts and pieces from the original collection. Also, I solder copper water pipe with a propane torch and unleaded solder. Building code demands that lead NOT be used near potable water.

No, I'm not that old. The oldest I've dealt with are 2way radios (Motorola, GE, RCA, Link, etc) from the 1950's that used rubber insulated wires. The rubber insulation would eventually harden and crumble. Everything would be working, but all the solid wires connecting the tube sockets on the bottom of the chassis were converted to bare wires. As long as nothing moved, it worked. Keeping such radios going was fun. Resoldering the remaining rubber wires was not fun as the rubber would smoke and stink badly.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann
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Just press on it with the x-acto knife. Cuts clean.

--

John Larkin         Highland Technology, Inc 

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com 
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
Reply to
John Larkin

Update: the parcel arrived this afternoon. Happy Joy!

You must have a very messy lab. I try to keep things organized by putting them in small containers, then put those in larger containers with other related parts.

It doesn't work. I have a bag of NE-2 neon bulbs that I put somewhere and I can't find them for love or money. I wonder how others keep things organized so they can find them without all the hassle.

Just curious - it would seem the amount of solder to tin the wires would be much less than the amount needed for a solder joint. But your ratio appears to be the opposite. It looks like you use more to tin the wire than for the solder joint. How so?

That's funny!

I remember the rubber insulation in some pre-WWII radios as well. I hated the stuff. It was impossible to work on a radio without having the insulation crumble off and causing shorts all over the place.

Most of the time, the tubes would survive the abuse even though the plates would sometimes glow red. I recall being severely disappointed when I started working with transistors and found they would die without warning and without making any noise for even the slightest mistake.

"These will never last", I said.

Reply to
Tom Swift

I got one of these in storage and it worked the last time I used it, long ago.

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Jamie

Reply to
Maynard A. Philbrook Jr.

Nope. That's far too modern. My guess(tm) is the CB-100 would be

1960.

The rubber insulated wires were used prior to WWII, when the US had a stable source of rubber, and a few years afterwards, when polyethylene insulated wire became a suitable substitute. The type of radios that I had to deal with were the early land mobile radios such as: The ones in the first few photos were officially called "Deluxe Line" but more commonly called 30D or "twin coffin". I would buy them used and try to clean them up.

Soapy water and a garden hose worked best if the rubber wiring was intact. The local "quarter car wash" with it's high pressure hose, was a great way to quickly destroy all the insulation. Of course, the water stayed in the cracks in the insulation, which required a few days in the sun to dry out. I still had some of the old tube stuff around until about 1995 when I orchestrated a purge. I still have a rather huge single channel tube type handie talkie (aka breaky backy) in my pile that I plan to restore in my non-existent spare time.

Smog Angeles air was particularly good at destroying rubber. More:

Rubber-Covered Wiring in 1939-1942 Philcos

India Rubber World, Volumes 35-36

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

On a sunny day (Wed, 24 Sep 2014 15:24:20 -0700) it happened Jeff Liebermann wrote in :

Oh I remember that, in the TV studio We had old Ampex VR1000 video recording machines:

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That was just the console, each machine had two racks from floor to ceiling with 19 inch racks filled with tubes, transformers, what not.
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Mostly tubes, the power supplies were all wired with rubber insulated wires. The power supplies are at the bottom of the racks... the rubber just crumbled and left bare wires in the power supplies! We started repairing some, but then the place burned down:
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Was it those power supplies? I remember being asked for a report on the status of that equipment just before the fire. 'Beyond repair', in the sense of buying new equipment would be faster, cheaper, and better. So nobody really cried when it went up in smoke.

Nice days there though.

Reply to
Jan Panteltje

On a sunny day (Wed, 24 Sep 2014 23:49:54 GMT) it happened Tom Swift wrote in :

I remember we had some PLC controlling some huge pumps (for water control of the city). One of those techs came and looked at the EEPROM (memory chip with little window for UV light so it could be erased, for the younger ones). He looked at the tiny little wires of the chip through that window, and was explained that that controlled his big pumps. 'Cannot be right'.

Reply to
Jan Panteltje

Beldsol works well. But use a hot iron, at least 750 F. It should be a puff of smoke, and done.

I first learned this when soldering the terminals on ferrite pot core bobbins - the nylon would melt if I used too cool an iron.

The fumes are like rosin smoke - need a breeze if working for long periods of time - causes a headache.

Joe Gwinn

Reply to
Joe Gwinn

It can do a lot more than give a headache. Rosin smoke is one thing, plastic fumes are a very different animal.

--

Rick
Reply to
rickman

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