The problem is the aluminum tube cooled the air. if you insulated the outside of the tube, it ought to have worked. I've certainly seen rising drafts cause by an old light bulb, no chimney needed.
The tube might need a "hat" to make sure room air didn't plunge down the tube from the top. You want the whole column of air to rise in unison, not have bubbles of hot air tumbling in it. There were only passive cooling chimneys used a hundred years ago that had features like that.
Jon
A friend of mine just installed a BOAT PORTHOLE in their shower stall! (eBay purchase, of course!) I guess their back yard is pretty secluded, and out in the country.
Jon
the heat input and the chimney size need to match
I seen several places with a window in the bathroom/shower, but it's been windows that are maybe 20cm tall and right under the ceiling so you can't really look in unless you are standing on a ladder, but it still lets light in
Hmm, nevermind, guess they do!
(Wonder if it's the pink stuff that's usually isocyanate, then?)
No, that would get them in trouble pretty quickly. Dow is still around, and... bigger than Xerox probably?
Unless you meant what you said earlier, in which case, no, they're probably not too happy about that, but genericized it is!
Tim
-- Seven Transistor Labs, LLC Electrical Engineering Consultation and Contract Design Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com
For when a bear wanders in, and you need to assert dominance by mooning it, even at your least convenient!
Tim
-- Seven Transistor Labs, LLC Electrical Engineering Consultation and Contract Design Website: http://seventransistorlabs.com
here it is called "Flamingo" because that is what the company that first sold it here called it
don't forget to look at the datasheet for those resistors, quite a few of them will be derated to ~0W at ~100'C
I recall Xerox was not happy with the use of their name in the generic for copiers. They attempted an ad campaign, but there was nothing they could do. That said, you can't put Styrofoam on your "extruded polystyrene" products unless you are Dow... lol
Wow! I just read wikipedia on this (and some other references) and it seems there is a lot more to it. First, Styrofoam is "extruded polystyrene" while styrofoam is not. The stuff we generically refer to as styrofoam is actually "expanded polystyrene" which is slightly different.
I was in a styrofoam factory once working on the alarm system. They used small pellets of polystyrene soaked in pentane which were placed in a rectangular mold. On heating the polystyrene softens and the pentane turns to a gas expanding the beads. If there are enough to more than fill the mold after expanding they stick together making the stuff we put food in. Extruded polystyrene is not made from the beads, but is made of the same stuff that is in the beads. Dow only sells it for thermal insulation and is dyed a light blue as a trademark. Corning dyes their similar product pink and they've trademarked that color! So the color indicates brand rather than material.
-- Rick C
I lived in a rental house where the had a window in the bathtub. Made taking a shower other than private.
-- Rick C
you can't put power in to reach that temp.
-- Rick C
Kleenex, asperin, and many other brands have made their way into the language. The original companies have lost their trademark.
It's not all that unusual. Our first house had a window over the master tub/shower. Our current house has a large window over the tub (but not the shower).
Not always substantial unless radiative transfer is significant (usually at round 30C temperature difference) but it prevents hot spots and cold spots by equalising the temperature at the radiation barrier.
There is always some heat loss with any real materials, but even a relatively thin piece of styrofoam is warm to the touch so I don't see how it can support a noticeable draft unless you have liquid air on the other side of your window. How cold is cold in this context?
Divert the draft to one side then?
One which might do what you want is the twinwall polycarbonate used with the channels running horizontal as an inner insulating layer. I think you need to figure out where the draft is actually coming from.
Something isn't right here.
-- Regards, Martin Brown
Hard to measure the temperature of something on the other side of a piece of Styrofoam. If you check, you will find there is a slow moving draft off your walls. The fact that your hand will warm up a piece of Styrofoam means nothing compared to the small amount of heat required to warm air. Styrofoam feels warm to the touch for the same reason room temperature marble feels cold to the touch, thermal mass, not temperature.
That's already been discussed.
If you think the draft isn't from the cold coming through the wall and window, then what isn't right is your thinking. We aren't talking about Niagra Falls. It is a very slow moving draft only a few degrees cooler than the room temperature. Heck, it might not even be that the air is cooler than the rest of the room. It may well just be that the air is constantly moving over my shoulders disturbing the warm boundary layer of air around my body.
It's much better with a warm draft replacing the warm layers of air around my body.
-- Rick C
You're on the right track (as is krw).
A couple years ago I investigated improving the efficiency of a refrigerator by adding external insulation. Measuring the temperature differential across the insulation allowed measurement and calculation of the actual loss.
It took 4" of rigid foam insulation[1] to produce the same temperature differential as was achieved with 1/2" of foil-backed polyisocyanurate foam.[2]
[1]So, the foil barrier is stunningly useful. (The foil has to be installed facing the heat source. Anything contacting the foil eliminates the benefit, since heat is then simply conducted straight through.)
I applied this insight to the exact drafty window problem Rick's solving. Two aluminized car dashboard shades, held in place at night with tension rods[3] works amazingly well.
[3]It was a cheap experiment.
The soft dashboard shades were $1 each at the local DollarTree. They're not fully opaque--enough daylight shines through to yield useful illumination, should you choose to leave them up on a super-cold day.
There's still a draft, but markedly less. Rick will still probably prefer his heater. 200w for one heater, though, is as almost much as my whole house (280w, average draw last month).
Cheers, James Arthur
On Tuesday, February 14, 2017 at 9:56:40 AM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wro te:
it,
Foil is very effective for heat flow down. It stops the radiated heat tran sfer. But it is almost useless for heat flow up. In that case the heat is conduc ted by convection and the heat transfer by radiation is negligible. For hea t flow horizontal it is some what effective.
Polyurethane is usually expanded using CO2. And CO2 is a heavy gas that do es not conduct heat well. Argon is similar. So polyurethane foam is a muc h better insulation than polystyrene foam. At least for some years. Event ually water vapor gets into the polyurethane foam.
Dan
You've got the heat draw off by nearly a factor of ten. Who said 200 watts?
-- Rick C
Your number for electricity usage is a bit low. My usage last bill was
2350 kW average. 1692 kWhr / 720 hr = 2.35 kW costing under $200. Was your bill in the $20 range? If not I suspect you missed a decimal point.-- Rick C
Why do you seem never to believe other people? I used 207 kWhr, and yes, paid about $20 plus $10 service charge.
Cheers, James Arthur
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