What is used for sensing humidity?

controlling

Looks like this turns on the fan when condensation starts to form on the walls. Isn't it too late by then?

you hear is

really set it

wall

controlling

downwstairs,

aka horsehair with a "W".

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

This looks like it would be the best solutions. The output is conditioned and fairly linear. You could use a comparator to flip a relay or SSR at a set voltage level/ RH.

Fortunately I found a way to get a wire to where the light switch is requiring only a small amount of drywall to be cut out. So I can just wire it normally to a switch by the door. I'm just pulling the staples out along the wall stud and attaching 4 conductor awg14 to the existing wiring and pulling it through the holes in the ceiling joist to the light and the fan.

Works for me only one small vertical cut of drywall needs to be patched in and the smallest wall repainted.

Can you tell I really hate drywall. Actually not the drywall part its the sanding, that fine dust gets all through the house and ductwork its a PITA.

But if you have a dummy guest in the house and they forget to turn the fan on, then you have some relief.

greg

Sounds like the solution would be smarter guests. Or at least guests who can read the sign you put on the wall above the light switch.

Point is that you might want something more sensitive than the device shown in your link.

OK, let me tell you about my walls, plaster. I can get maybe a 20 inch cut with a sawzall before the blade gets flat.

I think it was after 1965 that they started using asbestos on the mix. I don't know much about that, but my house was built in 1952.

greg

I'm interested on seeing how it works when I install it. I don't really have enogh CFM going through. its a 100 CFM fan, but it has some restriction on the roof. I want to improve that. I added an air return in the bathroom to the furnace/air. That gap under the door used to be large before I added tile, but its a lot narrower. I'm seeing many new construction houses not using air returns in many rooms. I never saw one in the bathroom, except mine.

greg

The residential construction industry has progressively skimped on materials. If you're wondering why go into your local lumber yard and price 2 x 10 vs. 2 x8 or even 2 x6. They will use just what code requires sometimes not even that. You don't see 2 x 10 used to often any more in floors and roofs because of the price.

My brother in laws parents bought a new house and it looks nice like they all do but its obvious corners were cut. The whole floor can be seen to flex when somebody is walking on it when you're down in the basement.

Fortunately my house was constructed in the early 70's its all 2 x 10 and uses 1x 6 planks on the floors and roofs vs ply or OSB sheeting. I wouldn't buy a new house unless I made it or was present in the construction phase observing.

A brand new house maybe about $750k just around the corner from me has had nothing but problems and I see today he's got another one its pretty windy here half of his shingles and flashing on one side of his roof blew off.

My house only has one return per floor. I've since added another in the kitchen one high and one low. This helps exhaust cooking smoke and odours and improves efficiency of the central air.

Ideally what I eventually would like to do is have a high and low intake in each room leave the high intake open in the warm weather and close the bottom one and reverse for the winter. You could reduce your central airs power consumption by using intakes closer to the roof; hot air rises.

There is a trend to get velocities up to stir up the air more. Then position does not make as much difference.

My house has 2X10 on the flooring but the main beam is 4 2X8's I am in the process of remodling and strapping two 2X10 onto the existing 2X8's. Nails and bolts. I took out the orginal cinderbloc supports. I cannot correct the beam myself, in that it has sagged quicly from the ends of the house, then sort of levels off in the middle. The wood in the house looks crude and may have been a little wet when installed. I have been working on the electrical for a couple years and am still doing things. The smell of fresh pine is nice.

greg

There is no need for sanding, if you do it right. Get as smooth of a joint as you can, then use a damp sponge to remove any ridges or excess. No sanding, no plaster dust to clean up. If you're good at it, you can't tell a repair was made. Just don't to it in one thick coat. Several thin layers don't shrink or crack.

And use the fiberglass joint tape! ...Jim Thompson

I start out like that but then something goes wrong and I usually always have to do more sanding then I want. I'll keep doing it until its invisible but I admit I fall under the category of "not very good at it".

Whenever I do any Reno's that's usually the part that takes the most time for me.

And mix-it-yourself mud. The premixed stuff sucks.

If the hole is big enough to need it. Small repairs don't always need it. Sometimes I use a scrap of aluminum screen wire in the bottom of the hole, and gently press the first layer of plaster through the mesh. That gives a sold base for the rest of the repair without anything to ruin the finish.

All it takes is a little practice. :)

Some of it is very good, but it has to be fresh. If it's old, it's only good for a basecoat.

It's not good for anything. Premix is water soluble and the second coat softens the first - a major PITA. The mix-it-yourself stuff is plaster of paris based and sets up permanently. It's *much* easier work with.

I've used coarse steel wool as a "binder".

For nasty jobs, like when the autistic grandson flung open a door and busted thru the door stop, I take a piece of wood, string thru the middle, lather with glue, then pull it up behind the hole... then do the patching after the glue dries. ...Jim Thompson

For a small hole I either use a piece of wood or sheetrock in the back with a string through the middle, tied off to an opposite wall, mud, then cut the string and finish. They also make metal patch kits that stick to the wall, mud over, sand, and finish. For larger holes I cut a piece of sheetrock to fit the hole (save the cut out) and use a couple of strips of wood screwed to the wall and plug to anchor it.