rec.gardens
*.diy
You actually want to add a trace of copper sulphate to the bare stump first to deactivate the enzymes that protect fresh wood from fungal attack. Use too much and it will delay rotting. And some nitrate fertiliser or ammonium sulphamate in drill holes will accelerate the natural decay process.
In the UK the sulphamate product was sold as RootOut at one time.
(unlicensed use these days - due to worries over honey fungus)
Regards, Martin Brown
Dirll several holes in the stump, of moderate diameter, maybe a thumb's width, then pour in Potassium Nitrate, AKA saltpeter. Let it sit for a couple of years.I read about this once in some "home handyman" type magazine.
Nah, if you wanted to blast it, you'd just use dynamite. You could probably find a licensed blaster in the yellow pages.
Something I've always wanted to try is to use pure oxygen. You go to your local gas & welding stuff supplier, get a cylinder of oxygen, a regulator, and a piece of oxygen hose. Go to the home handyman store and get a piece of maybe 1/4" stainless tubing, which you secure to the end of the hose. Light a match, lay it on top of the stump, and start spraying pure oxygen on it. You'll probably be able to burn out the whole thing in an hour or so.
Or you could cut it flush, and rent a stump grinder.
Good Luck! Rich
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Nice toys, and playground too.
James
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IME, warm humid climes can rot away stumps in a few years. Boring a few holes helps. Dry climes fossilize 'em.
So, where it's damp and warm, cutting below grade and heaping mulch on top speeds things up tremendously.
OTOH I've dug a number out out West the hard way--pick and shovel, 6 feet deep. Dan's pull-over-the-tree method sounds a lot better!
My current default is to dig enough to cut to grade (so the obstacle's out of the way), then let nature take its course.
-- Cheers, James Arthur
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away.
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Yep- that's a good method for a precision drop and the leverage will pull the stump right over- but you have to cut all the big lateral roots first as in the bulldozer method, at least on the side of the "intended" fall. It helps to understand the root system of the tree you're dealing with, some are pushovers and others are very difficult. The US Dept Forestry has published figures on the pull tension required for various trunk calipers and it doesn't have to get too big before you're in the 50 ton range which requires BIG equipment. The Douglas Fir is a tap root system so it's the worst. And he's already cut the tree so he's down to just a stump. The simplest and cheapest method requiring the least tooling at this stage is to chip the stump apart with a 3.5 lb mattock. Once he gets it down to about
12" below grade, he's done- the remaining stump will never rot at that depth, at least in his lifetime, not enough oxygen.
Yep. Diced with a few chainsaw cuts, a mattock will make short work of chipping off the top.
James Arthur
Nah- you don't even need to dice it with a chain saw, just work from the outside inwards. And stump chips make the best kindling in the world, even a small stump will supply a wheelbarrow load or two.
If you are going to use a chainsaw, do remember to wear suitable protection.
Makes your eyes water, doesn't it?
ATB - Dave.
-- David C.Chapman - (dcchapman@minda.co.uk) --------------------------------------------------------------------------
My apologies for putting a *.jpg suffix and causing a 'file not found' error.
It is actually a pdf file so please try:-
ATB - Dave.
-- David C.Chapman - (dcchapman@minda.co.uk) --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Looks like an ad for a bug repellant?
Don't dynamite tri-m-ite. A very old refrain that i remember for such a product. Might still be available after some 4 or 5 decades.
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