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Trailer electrical/storage box done, lights work

Followup to my electrical box questions.

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I painted it Army Green and attached to trailer with 1/4" bolts.

Inside, there is wiring for LED signals, lights, brakes etc. There is also a breakaway brake actuator by TAP, also in the box. I have yet to install a brake controller it my truck (brake controller is not the same as breakaway actuator).

I put an envelope with most of trailer related receipts, into the shelf above the electricals, in case if police stops me and asks (unlikely but possible due to professional appearance of the bed).

One thing I have left to do is to put each LED on a 0.25A fuse. I do not yet have inline fuseholders.

The lights already have been found to work correctly. That means that I can drive this trailer legally. (brakes are required for certain GVW above the empty weight of this trailer)

Spending time under the trailer at 5F is not very fun.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus31248
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This is a big chance to start THREE new threads with your triviata.

Nick

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Reply to
Nick Mueller

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I have never, ever seen a normal T1 3/4 LED fused before. LEDs cost less than the dang fuse and holder. If they fail they explode and open the circuit just like the fuse would. In addition, a .25A aka 250mA fuse won't blow before the LED explodes and the series resistor limits the available current anyway.

Pete C.

Reply to
Pete C.

Ig,

Are you gonna put an electric beer cooler in it, also?

Wolfgang

Reply to
wfhabicher

I am more concerned about accidental shorts, than with protecting LED.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus31248

That's a great idea!

i
Reply to
Ignoramus31248

"It has a rubber seal and lockable locking handle. It is waterproof (weatherproof)."

Was. :)

Bringing the wiring out through ordinary box connectors took care of that, even if you filled around the wires with silicone seal or somesuch.

You might want to look around for sealed connectors. They have a rubber grommet that compresses around the cable. Hubbell used to make nice ones, though pricey.

It's amazing how much road spray will get into supposedly watertight boxes through such small openings.

Still, nice neat box. Only thing you're lacking are enclosure heaters to keep the condensation down. :)

Reply to
John Husvar

A single fuse in the common ground line to the LED assembly will provide that protection.

Reply to
Pete C.

I have a 30w control box heater. Maybe I will use it. I will see how bad road spray problem is, practically speaking. After all I can just wipe the inside of the box after some bad trailer trips.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus31248

Try it at 110F..on asphalt..

gunner

Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

Reply to
Gunner

You got me Gunner... I think that I would prefer 5F. At least, at 5F I can warm myself with a heat gun...

i
Reply to
Ignoramus18738

Good scarf, carhart coveralls and a chook (cap) with some decent gloves and you are golden. When laying on the asphalt..you pray for shade or work at night.

Gunner

Political Correctness

A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical liberal minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end.

Reply to
Gunner

I'll help drink the beer.

Ed

Reply to
ehsjr

Igor has good taste in beer; you have chosen wisely.

Reply to
Dave Hinz

I am glad that you liked it. I hope to you again one day.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus18738

Never, ever fuse a ground. Put the fuse in the +12 supply line.

Thanks, Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

Fusing ground is not practical for me (everything is grounded to case), so I will put fuses in input lines.

Got my registration papers in today.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus21592

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In the mean time you should wipe it down after every trip until you lern how to judge which ones are bad.

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 JosephKK
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Reply to
joseph2k

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