The question is, how many of those burn up per year? I've never had that happen. There's usually a breaker up front.
Another method might be to try to find some from 24V -> mains converters.
50 bucks? Ouch! This looks much better but I haven't checked if any are suitable:
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Their cores are usually way too small to carry this kind of power.
There is another trick of the trade but that will make the motor non-isolated from the battery: Place the output side ground on top of your battery, which adds in the battery voltage "for free". But be careful.
I happen to have about 12 or so powerstat cores that were damaged in an=20 early design of ETI's breaker test set. They are Staco 2510 and were=20 supposed to be rated at 9.5 amps and 280V, or almost 3kVA at 60 Hz. But = the=20 unique brush design (a thin flat carbon piece rather than the usual = wedge)=20 overheated, cracked, and then the brush assembly landed on the windings = and=20 caused major damage. I was going to use them in series/parallel to make = a=20 breaker test set rated at 4000 amps and 12V.
But those cores are about 25-30 lb each. However, by running them at 2 = kHz I=20 think it would be possible to get at least 10kVA.
currents.
converters.
I tried using some small ones first. They were only 175 and 300W, so = they=20 would power the VFD and spin the motor under no load, but died under = power.=20 My second movie about my project shows this. I was going to get a 2000 = or=20
3000 watt unit, but they are mostly 12 VDC. And they are not isolated. = There=20 is a 150 VDC internal bus, which is probably 300 VDC for the 220V = models. So=20 I could probably pick up the voltage there. But they are about $1/watt. = And=20 I already had the toroid, and the heat sinks, and the big capacitors, = and=20 the heat sinks.
I've dealt with them before. I'll see what those look like. But I found = some=20 on eBay that are supposed to be good for 3000 to 7000 watts:=20
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They are generally rated at 2VA to 50VA, but those are very conservative =
ratings for 1% or better metering. They will probably handle about 5x = that=20 at 60Hz, and I think they will also work on 2kHz to get a much higher=20 V/turn. I have a box of them so maybe I'll try it. If the secondary = winding=20 can put out 300V at 5A, that's 1500 VA. And the hole in the donut is big =
enough for a total of 16 turns of #10 enamel wire, good enough for 60 = amps=20 at 24V at 50% duty cycle.
That is the same principle as an autotransformer. I'm working on a = design=20 for someone who wants to boost 48V to 96V, at 200A or more, and for a =
2/1=20 boost it makes the booster half the size. But for a 24V to 300V, the = savings=20 are less than 10%.
I have a pair of EE cores, part number D66 343-C-027, and there are N27=20 markings on it. I also have some bobbins that might be for an even = larger=20 core, but with a square center. These cores have a cylindrical center =
0.642"=20 and the overall dimensions of each half are 0.642" thick x 2.75" wide by =
1.357" high.
I'm not very good at magnetics, so I would need to know how much power = these=20 cores can handle at various frequencies, and the volts per turn at=20 frequencies such as 25kHz, 50kHz, and 100kHz.
You had an unusual source to get those but the DIYer who wants to build this project may not.
$1 a watt? No way. I have a pretty good 300W inverter and those can be had for around $30. You do not need an expensive modified sine version and you may not even want that because they modulate the 150V rail.
Not sure how good these are:
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24V versions cost more but not a whole lot because that's the voltage for trucks and buses in Europe.
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If you want to make this into a DYI instruction or fun project for others EBay may not be the ticket. Once the auction has ended and all ferrites are gone -> game over for everyone else. You need something from a catalog that can be bought for years.
These inverters also contain information: How small a toroid they got away with and at which frequency. You'll have to multiply that by a healthy factor because DYIer won't have inductor winding machines and can't get custom wire or copper stock for the primary.
Watch the core temperature when you do stuff like this. It can appear to rise slowly but inside it's an angryf volcano.
10% is 10% :-)
It's also about efficiency because the first 12V (or in your case maybe
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