Spade connectors current ratings

Why not use Anderson connectors?

..... Phil

and availability.

We use these everywhere in hooking up batteries. It's OK to burn them out elsewhere, but not with the main feeds. These on the main feed would be difficult to replace; so, we want them to burn last.

Don Y snipped-for-privacy@foo.invalid wrote in news:t939gu$n72$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

The WIRE getting attached to the lug is where you spec your current at. If the wire can take it, and the lug is meant for that gauge of wire, then it can also handle the current that wire can handle.

If they cannot, then they are non-industry compliant JUNK.

Name brands are far better and more compliant than cheap Home Depot chinese imports. Everything from the base metal to the plating on it.

From a TE Connectivity quick reference guide:

Current Carrying Capacity size 2.8mm 14A max with 1.5mm² wire size size 4.8mm / 5.2mm 20A max with 2.5mm² wire size size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size size 9.5mm 50A max with 10mm² wire size

Better still, use Anderson Powerpole. One of the key features of Powerpole connectors is that the contact is separated from the spring so that each uses the most suitable material for its function.

John

John Walliker wrote: =================

OTOH QCs play right into Murphy's hands.

...... Phil

I think the link i posted are round 6.3mm. It should be good for 400V 28A. The battery is 400V 26Ah. So, 1C charge/discharge should be within spec.

They costs at least 10x. I can use it (anderson) for the main feed, but will adapt to the rest (spade) I have 32 sets of 12V batteries connected together plus BMS junction tap (4 each). 32x6 connectors cost money.

Ed Lee snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

So does Silver Plated Copper (SPC) with PTFE insulation, but that still does not discount the fact that it is what you should use.

You could also perform a 180 degree bend in an uninsulated segment and use a lug that accepts that size and then solder it in instead of crimping (or both). That way, your wire has no breaks in it and two connections need only one lug.

Unless you are talking about large gauge wires and want something like the robot wars guys use.

fredag den 24. juni 2022 kl. 19.34.02 UTC+2 skrev snipped-for-privacy@decadence.org:

solder instead of crimp? with what purpose? maximize the risk of failure?

I just need something better than the other connections, so they blow up before the main feed, which is more difficult to replace.

Actually, it's more of safety problem. I have a case mounted connector on the battery housing, but it would be inaccessible with the battery mounted on the vehicle. So, the main feeds are half-lived (one side of 200V) even with the shut off switched removed.

While testing, i had a nasty plastic burn with the meter test leads gapped. The leads vaporized and covered my fingers with black plastic powders. It hurts but no serious damages. So, respect your 400V battery.

Actually, properly made crimp connections are far more reliable than solder.

Joe Gwinn

lørdag den 25. juni 2022 kl. 00.45.38 UTC+2 skrev Joe Gwinn:

exactly

The yellow ones take 10AWG wire.

how many amps that allows depends on how hot it gets. So it depends on how good your crimp tool is, and other factors. I cant find any data sheets that list ampacity for the connectors.

personally I like the uninsualted fast-disconnects better, (the ones that make a "B" shaped crimp cross-section) but that may just be because I've never onwed a good crimp tool for the pre-insulated ones.

Joe Gwinn wrote: Lasse Langwadt Christensen =========================

There are way too many things to get right before crimping is reliable at all.

..... Phil

someone posted: "size 6.3mm 28A max with 4 or 6mm² wire size " which is more reasonable as the contact mating current capacity.

It's not a good idea to use uninsulated connector for 400V, if you accidentally touch more than one of them.

shrouds and sleeves are available to insulate after crimping.

Lasse Langwadt Christensen snipped-for-privacy@fonz.dk wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Maximize? Maybe in a high stress constant flexing scenario. These are not going to be moving around.

With crimp in a weathered setting as this, there may be oxidation issues with a mere crimp. A crimp AND soldering makes for a slightly better longevity, especially if one is using a cheap consumer single impingement crimp element instead of a good hex crimper or Amp crimper (w crimp).

Soldering after crimping gives perhaps a bit more tensile capacity, and makes it weather tight.

Soldering without crimping is less tensile strength than both together, but no less than crimp alone. Crimp alone is open to the environment though. Not many field crimps are gas tight and can oxidize or even exhibit galvanic responses.

So it is more about weathering longevity. The 180 bend segments at all the key points in the wire makes for a better connection from cell to cell and less lugs are needed. I suppose one could place two wire ends in one lug, but I feel that the 180 degree bend in the continuous wire makes for a better way to make each node.

Ed Lee snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

You want connections that act as fuses?

Bad, extremely flawed logic.