Joe Gwinn snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
Tensile wise, sure. No other reason.
Both are actually best in a non flexure environment. Crimp, then solder. Rules out PVC completely because it creeps away from heat. That PVC crap should have been drummed out of the industry decades ago, IMNSHO.
Lasse Langwadt Christensen snipped-for-privacy@fonz.dk wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Nice try. If he does not want to pay for a premium brand of lugs, he is not going to have a premium grade crimper, so attaining "a proper crimp" is not as easy as it is in an industrial setting with proper tools being used.
There is a 30A fuse. Unfortunately, they don't have 28A fuse. If any connector burn out, i just want the main feed to be the last.
Yeah, the 'yellow lugs' mentioned are insulated, consumer items. Better crimping uses barrel crimps, electrode paste (for aluminum), well-stripped wire of the right gage, and a ratchet crimper that gets recertified occasionally, and... pulling random stuff out of the drawer and getting it all right is hard. Sometimes, I solder over a crimp, because... well, I goofed. But, I have used the right hydraulic crimp tools on heavy cable, too; it's reliable all right.
whit3rd snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Yes. A proper crimp is even what is referred to as "gas tight", and has a very high pull strength before failure.
What surprises me, is this is the primary way of connecting lead-acid batteries that are bigger than a D cell, and smaller than a motorcycle battery. The potential for reversing the leads is not tiny and the consequences enormous! I believe the lithium batteries typically used in model airplanes, etc. have a polarized connector that even offers protection from the surge current when plugged in.
I use male plugs for positive and female socket for negative. No chance of reversing. For uni-sexual male circuit breaker, i use a short female to female adapter glued to it.
Because it's a garbage connector kit that you linked to.
30 amps is no problem with a 0.250 faston stuff. Buy US made terminals that have fully welded sleeves for the wire or a second metal shroud over the folded part.You can see the second sleeve on this splash page for 3M if you look carefully at the dark blue terminal on the left.
There are also non-copper terminals for high temperature use for things like heating elements.
A good quality crimper and dies are required for a solid, high current ready connection.
Panduit has a decent line of controlled cycle crimpers. Even the "pliers" CT-260 is a good tool for the style that's generally considered terrible. The bolter-cutter, wire stripper and crimp tools made of stamped sheet metal are no good.
I use an AMP ratcheting style tool that takes the standard 3 size/gang dies. Good dies are polished so they release from the connector.
If you want to cadillac of crimpers and dies, DMC is the place to talk to.
Cydrome Leader snipped-for-privacy@MUNGEpanix.com wrote in news:t9bko7$214$ snipped-for-privacy@reader2.panix.com:
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DMC makes the mil pin crimpers. They have a quad style impingement die.
The best electrical large lug commercial crimpers are AMP and Panduit and others like TE connectivity. No sense spending 500 dollars on a DMC when you can get an AMP for a few hundred less.
Panduit, AMP, Leviton, TTI.
DMC makes the plain 1" dies too. I've not looked for any on ebay, but good tools turn up there all the time.
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