Solder Resist methods?

Probably more expensive though...

Are you talking about that green stuff that da prose use? I'd think it's silk-screened on; I don't know what the goo is, but maybe try googling for "solder resist ink" or "solder mask" or something.

Good Luck! Rich

I'll probably

if I could put

finding the stuff

work, for

but I guess

across traces and

need to add a

components are

soldering.

work? Maybe

i was just recently looking into solder resists as well ...

i had thought of using some kind of colored clear coat {enamel, acrylic} spray paint you find at local automotive stores. Most auto-stores also carry **high heat** spray paint for engine temps and in colors other than black like transparent colored clear coats {blue, green, red, etc } i have yet to test these and do not know of conductivity ??

while searching for ideas i came across a diy-audio site that talked about using Testors spray enamel paint (again a transparent colored paint , so one can see through it)

and the site also mentioned "pebeo vitrea 160" ink for glass painting it is cured by 150-160 degrees F

if you search that with "resist" you will probably find thr thread about it

hth robb

Depending on the density of the circuit, you can get away with using silkscreen as solder-mask, just draw thick lines perpendicular to the traces to prevent the solder from wicking. YMMV.

Solder mask can be "LPI", it is imaged the same way as the copper artwork. This is done to achieve 1 mil accuracy of the solder mask. Cruder designs can use silkscreen solder mask.

For hand repair, use MG Chemicals #4190-GP.

At first read ..(and the coffee hasn't kicked in)..I'm still hazy.. Are you looking for solder resist (post title) or etch resist?

D from BC

That would probably melt when the solder hits it. Some higher-temperature stuff would be better.

If you're hand soldering, you don't really need resist.

John

That is exactly what I have been doing for many years. Combined with a paint brush with only a few hairs left in it and you can paint a _very_ fine trace.

The polish dries quickly so you will need to continuously dilute.

I start out with dry-transfer component patterns (like DIP) and paint from there. Lacquer thinner to dilute, and to remove after etching.

If you get messy and overpaint, wait 10 minutes to dry and scrape it off with a fine point X-acto knife.

No no, I mean as a solder resist or maybe better said as a "final" coat. Not an etch resist but to coat the copper after it has been etched.

I'm worried about shorting out the first because I used copper pours. If a wire drops across anywhere its bound to short out a bunch of things. I'm not worryed about the heat because infact I probably need to coat it before I solder(it would be easier) and I don't have any easy way to protect pads. (so if it comes off with soldering then thats actually ok)

Solder. I've already etched and want to prevent any shorts.

Maybe try Future. Just a thought.

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

Yeah, I found it. I'm still doing some research. I don't really want to bake the board for a very long time I'm thinking of just patching over any pads and dipping it in some type of enamel or something. I'll probably need to make a few trips and figure out what I could use. I think probably anything that isn't conductive will work(although might not be very scratch resistant but I'm not to worried about that)

I think you're confusing terms here.

A final coat is called a conformal coat. This goes over everything.

If all you want is to coat the copper to prevent it oxidizing and to keep it solderable, you can use liquid tin.

The usually green coating you see on real PCBs is called the solder mask.

The stuff you draw on home made PCBs to prevent etching is called resist.

The legend or lettering or service print or refdes is called the silkscreen.

Essentially. Doesn't have to be green and isn't silk-screened. Its just dipped or sprayed on and there are many variations. But I'm sure there are many products out there that can be used for DIY. The only real issue is that its non-conductive.

FWIW, I've always heard that referred to as "solder mask". That might google better thatn "solder resist".

Good Luck! Rich

Ahh... I've never done this but maybe try to thin out hardware store silicone with xylene. BBQ paint might work too. It's got silicone in it.. Engine paint too has a high temp rating. Maybe pop into a store with automotive products. Apply by syringe, brush, stencil, screen, spray, roller, spin, dip etc..

D from BC

I might have got the terms mixed up but I'm pretty sure I've seen it called solder resist too(along with a few other names). Both names don't seem to make much sense though.

I think I might try some polyurethane or some type of spray paint... probably goto the store soon and see what I can find.