I'm using one of those Harbor Fright 1.5 watt solar panels. Testing in the late October sun shows an open circuit voltage of 21.5 and a short circuit current of about 60 mA. Maximum power was at an output voltage of 12.7 and
38.5 mA...about half a watt. Probably double that in the noontime summer sun, but don't ever believe that a HF device will meet the published specifications.My calculation shows that I can model this little rascal as a 21.5 volt voltage source with an internal series resistance of 220 ohms or thereabouts if that is what I want to do.
The recombinant gas "12 volt" battery I'm using likes to be taken up to
13.6, then allowed to self-discharge back to 12.6, then up to 13.6 again... .I had originally planned on using a switching power supply to get the last milliwatt of power out of the little panel, but (a) the voltage is so close to the desired voltage that it seems a waste to go that sophisticated when a simple linear PNP pass using an LM324 as the error amplifier plus another section of the 324 as a comparator with hysteresis to shut the current off when the voltage hits 13.6 and then back on at 12.6. A 3-silicon diode reference to attempt to "track" the desire of a lead-acid battery to charge to different voltages summer and winter.
This is my first shot with a solar controller, so if anybody has any pearls of wisdom they'd like to lay on me before I start reinventing the Edison valve, I'd appreciate hearing from you in this ng.
Thanks,
Jim