Replacing LEDs in strip lights

I use this sort of thing:

formatting link
When they eventually fail, it's the LEDs that have gone. Isn't it possible to buy a strip of LEDs to slide into it instead of buying a new power supply and chassis aswell? Uneconomical and wasteful of resources.

Reply to
Commander Kinsey
Loading thread data ...

Most commercial tubes (which I was trying to replace the LEDs in) run at 75V, powered by a constant current supply. I need a strip of LEDs with no resistors in it, with about 24 LEDs in series, and blocks of those 24 in parallel with each other.

Reply to
Commander Kinsey

...

That's a problem. Firstly, the large-number-of-LEDs-in-series design keeps wiring simple, BUT you can't usefully repair by replacing ONE LED, because matching matters. It's used because it can work with fluorescent ballasts in old installations. Second, the 'current source' supply with blocks in parallel means your parallel blocks must match (a shorted LED ruins the match of the whole parallel block). Third, the use of fluorescent-compatible design introduces time-dependent current; even if the flicker doesn't bother you, it can drive optical sensors of all sorts completely crazy (or radiate RF). But, you wouldn't ever depend on a remote control to work, right?

The many-in-series current drive is inflexible, which is why the constant-voltage drive into resistor-equipped short strings is so popular. There are long strips of such paralleled short strings, easily available, and can be used with a variety of the familiar 12V regulated DC supplies we all have a dusty box of...

Reply to
whit3rd

Actually it doesn't. I've replaced single ones many a time. As long as the current is fairly similar, they work. If the voltage is different, the PSU adjusts.

Not always, the ones I'm referring to, most of the ones in my house, are not retro fit. They are their own unit.

Yeah that happened with one light I had. I assume a few failed in one series strip, and that strip's remaining LEDs got more and more current until they all blew. The light continued to function with the other half for years, which is surprising, since they should have got double the current. Either the PSU hit a voltage limit, or the dead strip was consuming current.

But most of my lights are actually groups of 2 LEDs in parallel, then all the groups put in series. So when one fails short circuit, that pair go off, but the rest get the same current from the supply, which adjusts the voltage to retain the correct current.

It's just as well these LEDs always fail short circuit, or the lights would have a very short life. I remember early LED lights, before the individual LEDs were so powerful, the LEDs used to fail open circuit. Traffic lights aswell - you'd see them with a third of the circle of LEDs off.

Why?

I've never had a problem.

Resistors waste power. I've only seen them in the low voltage strips used for cars, not in the mains powered ones, those all have constant current supplies. not sure why they aren't in the car ones, probably because people like to just connect different lengths up, and you can cut the strips to length. I used some to repair an old insect zapper, as I couldn't find mains UV LED strips.

Reply to
Commander Kinsey

ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.